Yon-Ka Paris Creme 28

Yon-Ka Paris Creme 28

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Glycerin, Sodium pca + 12 more
Works
What the product description says
“Yonka Paris Creme 28 is designed specifically to seal in hydration and protect the delicate moisture balance to preserve overall skin health.Who is this for?Ideal for those of all skin types, especially sensitive and dehydrated, who want protected and moisturized skin.”
Source: SkincareRX

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, ethyl linoleate.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~3.9–4.7%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~3–3.7%
Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~2.3–2.8%
Decyl oleateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.3%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.6–1.9%
Ethyl linoleateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~0.5–0.7%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.4–1.8%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.55–0.8%
Ethyl oleate· EmollientEffect: LowEthyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smell~0.3–0.6%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
Retinyl palmitate ~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Benefits Leaves skin vibrant, soft and supple. Helps to reduce lines and wrinkles. Deeply moisturizes dehydrated skin.”
Source: Skinstore

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.3%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Ethyl linoleate, Allantoin + 1 more
May help

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains ethyl linoleate.

Ethyl linoleateKey activeEffect: HighHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~0.5–0.7%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Lavandula angustifolia oil, Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Pelargonium graveolens leaf oilAn essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.25–0.4%est.
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil—High~0.2–0.4%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~3–3.7%est.
Peg-75 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.65–1%est.
Ethyl linoleateHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Ceteth-20Helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Ethyl oleateEthyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smellMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Decyl oleateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~1.9–2.3%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sodium pca~3.9–4.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Olea europaea fruit oil~3–3.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Cetyl palmitate~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate
Decyl oleate~1.9–2.3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Decyl oleate
Cetyl alcohol~1.6–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-32 stearate~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-32 stearate
Peg-6 stearate~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-6 stearate
Peg-75 stearate~0.65–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Peg-75 stearate
Propylene glycol~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Peg-35 castor oil~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-35 castor oil
Ethyl linoleate~0.5–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking

More about Ethyl linoleate
Ethyl linolenate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Lecithin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Ceteth-20~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Ceteth-20
Steareth-20~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20
Ethyl oleate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Ethyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smell

More about Ethyl oleate
Sclerotium gum~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Cupressus sempervirens oil~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Allantoin~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citronellol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Limonene~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Coumarin~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin
Citral~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Sodium pca, Olea europaea fruit oil, Cetyl palmitate, Decyl oleate, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-32 stearate, Peg-6 stearate, Peg-75 stearate, Propylene glycol, Peg-35 castor oil, Ethyl linoleate, Ethyl linolenate, Lecithin, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ethyl oleate, Sclerotium gum, Xanthan gum, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Cupressus sempervirens oil, Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Retinyl palmitate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Tocopherol, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Coumarin, Citral

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Yon-Ka ParisCreme 28YOUR PRODUCTPCA SKINCollagen HydratorM-61JetGlow CreamCeraVeEczema Relief Creamy Oil
Match—36%35%34%
Price—$53.00——
Shared key ingredients—4 of 74 of 74 of 7
Key difference—Butyrospermum Parkii ButterGlycolic AcidNiacinamide
Irritancy High Low Low Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
  6. 6
Yon-Ka Paris Creme 28
Yon-Ka ParisCreme 28

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