Ultra Moisturizing Derma Cream with 17 Amino Acids

Name: VARUZA - Ultra Moisturizing Derma Cream with 17 Amino Acids
Brand: VARUZA

Efficacy 100/100·Medium irritancy · In 2 routines

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Based on the ingredient list, "VARUZA - Ultra Moisturizing Derma Cream with 17 Amino Acids" can work well for skin moisturization.

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "VARUZA - Ultra Moisturizing Derma Cream with 17 Amino Acids" can work well for skin moisturization. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, fructooligosaccharides and glutamic acid in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (arginine, phenyl trimethicone, squalane and hydrogenated poly (c6-14 olefin)) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

Adenosine 0.25% - 0.50%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.10% - 0.20% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, chenopodium quinoa seed extract and centella asiatica extract

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

28 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, phenyl trimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, niacinamide

MADECASSOSIDERole: HeroAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.2%

NIACINAMIDERole: Key activeIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–1.9%

ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.5%

ASPARTIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

BETA-GLUCANRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%

CHENOPODIUM QUINOA SEED EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

CYSTEINERole: Key activeMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.1–0.25%

FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDESRole: Key activeHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

GLUTAMIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.6–4.4%

GLYCINERole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%

HISTIDINERole: Key active~0.15–0.3%

HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACIDRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.2–0.35%

ISOLEUCINERole: Key activeAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.15–0.3%

LAMINARIA JAPONICA EXTRACTRole: Key activeSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%

LYSINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

PHENYL TRIMETHICONERole: Key activeA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~1.4–1.7%

POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANERole: Key activeA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.3–0.55%

PORIA COCOS SCLEROTIUM EXTRACTRole: Key activeA mushroom extract that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be able to help reduce irritation and support restoration of skin barrier~0.2–0.4%

SERINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

SQUALANERole: Key activeAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.25–0.45%

THREONINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

TRIETHYLHEXANOINRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.3%

TYROSINERole: Key active~0.15–0.3%

ALANINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.2–0.35%

ARGININERole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.15–0.3%

Anti-oxidation

MADECASSOSIDE at ~0.1–0.2% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - cysteine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CYSTEINERole: Key activeMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.1–0.25%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Anti-aging

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: aspartic acid, lysine, madecassoside, serine, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

ASPARTIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

LYSINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

SERINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

THREONINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Irritancy

10 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Eclipta prostrata leaf extractA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~1.2–1.4%est.

TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinLow~1.1–1.3%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.25–0.4%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Low~0.25–0.45%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsLow~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

Laminaria japonica extract ~0.25–0.5% — rinse-off or low %

Some risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Laminaria japonica extractSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Ultra Moisturizing Derma Cream with 17 Amino Acids

Product summary

Ingredient callouts

Irritation risk

Product claims breakdown

Ingredients

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