True North Butterfly Pea Enzyme Mask

True North Butterfly Pea Enzyme Mask

Efficacy18/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Saccharum officinarum extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil + 8 more
Works
What the product description says
“Formulated with Butterfly Pea Flower extract and exfoliating bilberry fruit enzymes to gently calm skin, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and deliver antioxidants for powerful hydration.”
Source: True north beauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: avena sativa kernel flour, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, avena sativa kernel flour.

Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.8–2.2%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%
Avena sativa kernel flourKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier~0.3–0.55%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.25–0.5%
Mangifera indica seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~7.3–8.9%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–0.7%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
Niacinamide ~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Formulated with Butterfly Pea Flower extract and exfoliating bilberry fruit enzymes to gently calm skin, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and deliver antioxidants for powerful hydration.”
Source: True north beauty

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~7.3–8.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.2–0.4%
Exfoliation
Salicylic acid ~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Formulated with Butterfly Pea Flower extract and exfoliating bilberry fruit enzymes to gently calm skin, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and deliver antioxidants for powerful hydration.”
Source: True north beauty

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Salicylic acidUnder-dosedUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.25–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Niacinamide ~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Butterfly Pea Enzyme Mask $ 20.00 $ 40.00 Quantity Product Description Customer Reviews Butterfly Pea Enzyme Mask Full Size 2 oz , Box Exclusive This light, soothing face mask delivers antioxidants and hydration to your skin, leaving you with an even, bright tone and soft, glowing look.”
Source: True north beauty

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.25–0.45%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~1.2–1.5%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.95–1.2%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.25–0.45%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~7.3–8.9%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~1.5–1.9%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~7.3–8.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAntibacterialAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Propanediol~4.4–5.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Water~3.2–4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~2.3–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Saccharum officinarum extract~1.8–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Acer saccharum extract~1.5–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~1.2–1.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.95–1.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Cetearyl olivate~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Sorbitan olivate~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Kaolin~0.7–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingAnti-blemish

A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color

More about Kaolin
Oryza sativa powder~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Inonotus obliquus extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Stearic acid~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Benzyl alcohol~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Salicylic acid~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Glycerin~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sorbic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Mangifera indica seed butter~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Mangifera indica seed butter
Niacinamide~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Clitoria ternatea flower extract~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Avena sativa kernel flour~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier

More about Avena sativa kernel flour
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Lecithin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Sclerotium gum~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Pullulan~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Propanediol, Water, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Acer saccharum extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Kaolin, Oryza sativa powder, Inonotus obliquus extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Stearic acid, Benzyl alcohol, Salicylic acid, Glycerin, Sorbic acid, Mangifera indica seed butter, Niacinamide, Clitoria ternatea flower extract, Avena sativa kernel flour, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopherol, Xanthan gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium gum, Pullulan, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
True NorthButterfly Pea Enzyme MaskYOUR PRODUCTThe outsetPurifying Blue Clay Maskthe klogSweet Potato BHA Clay MaskKarunaExfoliating Treatment Mask
Match—89%85%85%
Price—$35.00——
Shared key ingredients—5 of 104 of 102 of 10
Key difference—Cassia Angustifolia Seed PolysaccharidePolymethylsilsesquioxaneGluconolactone
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"True North - Butterfly Pea Enzyme Mask" could be helpful for: Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Humectants (avena sativa kernel flour 0.30% - 0.55% and glycerin 0.25% - 0.50%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

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True North Butterfly Pea Enzyme Mask
True NorthButterfly Pea Enzyme Mask

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