thoughtfullyformed AHA Cream Exfoliant

thoughtfullyformed AHA Cream Exfoliant

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Cetearyl alcohol, Coco-caprylate + 11 more
Works
What the product description says
“The cream base formula contains nourishing and skin-smoothing ingredients like Glycerin, Jojoba Oil, White Willow Bark Extract and Pentavitin to help skin retain hydration and not feel dry or irritated.”
Source: thoughtfullyformed

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharide isomerate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~5.3–7.9%
Coco-caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~3.9–5.8%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~2.9–4.3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.1–3.2%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.8–2.7%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~1.5–2.2%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.1–1.7%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.1%
Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.3–1.9%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.35–0.85%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.1–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.25%
Exfoliation
Salix alba bark extract
Not delivered
What the product description says
“AHA Cream Exfoliant”
Source: thoughtfullyformed

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Salix alba bark extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.05–0.2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–1%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.7%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~3.9–5.8%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~2.9–4.3%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.1–1.7%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.1–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~5.3–7.9%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cetearyl alcohol~5.3–7.9%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Coco-caprylate~3.9–5.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~2.9–4.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Glycerin~2.1–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.8–2.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Jojoba esters~1.5–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Glyceryl stearate citrate~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.1–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Benzyl alcohol~0.5–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Saccharide isomerate~0.5–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Glyceryl caprylate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.3–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Maltodextrin~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Dehydroacetic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Alcohol~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Acer saccharum extract~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder
Citric acid~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium citrate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Tocopherol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Salix alba bark extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract
Tert-butanol
Not recognized
Ingredient list view

Water, Cetearyl alcohol, Coco-caprylate, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Glycerin, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Jojoba esters, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Benzyl alcohol, Saccharide isomerate, Xanthan gum, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Glyceryl caprylate, Saccharum officinarum extract, Maltodextrin, Dehydroacetic acid, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Alcohol, Acer saccharum extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Potassium sorbate, Tocopherol, Salix alba bark extract, Unknown

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🌐 thoughtfullyformed (NZ)75 ml
≈ $13.89
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
thoughtfullyformedAHA Cream ExfoliantYOUR PRODUCTDIBI MilanoFace Perfection Reactivating ScrubEmma LewishamIlluminating Brighten Your Day CrèmeSanta Maria NovellaIdralia Exfoliating Cream
Match—40%39%38%
Price—$44.04$120.00$70.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 75 of 74 of 7
Key difference—Lactic AcidPrickly Pear Seed OilRosemary Extract
Irritancy High Medium High High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

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thoughtfullyformed AHA Cream Exfoliant
thoughtfullyformedAHA Cream Exfoliant

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.