thoughtfullyformed AHA Cream Exfoliant
Works for
1 of 2 advertised claims delivered
MoisturizingJojoba esters, Saccharum officinarum extract + 11 moreGood evidence
“The cream base formula contains nourishing and skin-smoothing ingredients like Glycerin, Jojoba Oil, White Willow Bark Extract and Pentavitin to help skin retain hydration and not feel dry or irritated.”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, saccharide isomerate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.
ExfoliationSalix alba bark extractWeak evidence
“AHA Cream Exfoliant”
This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy3 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract + 1 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale1 flagged
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~40–60%
Cetearyl alcohol~5.3–7.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
More about Cetearyl alcoholCoco-caprylate~3.9–5.8%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture
More about Coco-caprylateSimmondsia chinensis seed oil~2.9–4.3%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oilGlycerin~2.1–3.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinHelianthus annuus seed oil~1.8–2.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
More about Helianthus annuus seed oilJojoba esters~1.5–2.2%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
More about Jojoba estersGlyceryl stearate citrate~1.3–1.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
More about Glyceryl stearate citrateCaprylic/capric triglyceride~1.1–1.7%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
More about Caprylic/capric triglycerideBenzyl alcohol~0.5–1%
- Irritation risk
- High
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
More about Benzyl alcoholSaccharide isomerate~0.5–1.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Saccharide isomerateXanthan gum~0.4–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumVaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.35–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking
More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractGlyceryl caprylate~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products
More about Glyceryl caprylateSaccharum officinarum extract~0.3–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Saccharum officinarum extractMaltodextrin~0.2–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil
More about MaltodextrinDehydroacetic acid~0.3–0.6%
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.15–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity
More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractCitrus limon fruit extract~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- High
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity
More about Citrus limon fruit extractAlcohol~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
More about AlcoholAcer saccharum extract~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds
More about Acer saccharum extractAloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~0.1–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderCitric acid~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
More about Citric acidSodium citrate~0.1–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
More about Sodium citratePotassium sorbate~0.1–0.3%
Tocopherol~0.05–0.25%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolSalix alba bark extract~0.05–0.2%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
More about Salix alba bark extractIngredient list view
Water, Cetearyl alcohol, Coco-caprylate, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Glycerin, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Jojoba esters, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Benzyl alcohol, Saccharide isomerate, Xanthan gum, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Glyceryl caprylate, Saccharum officinarum extract, Maltodextrin, Dehydroacetic acid, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Alcohol, Acer saccharum extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Potassium sorbate, Tocopherol, Salix alba bark extract, Unknown
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Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
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