The INKEY List CA Caffeine Under-Eye Serum

The INKEY List CA Caffeine Under-Eye Serum

Efficacy75/100IrritancyLow

Works for

Anti-aging
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“This serum is derived from coffee and helps to reduce dark circles and fine lines.”
Source: Sephora Hong Kong

This product contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.45%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.4%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.4%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 + 9 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: hyaluronic acid, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, glycine soja sterols.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.4%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.45%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~3.2–4.7%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~2.6–4%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.5–2.2%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.5–1.2%
Glycine soja sterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.2–0.75%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.4%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~4.1–6.2%
Tribehenin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.15%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Albizia julibrissin bark extractA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingHigh~1.5–2.3%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~4.1–6.2%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~3.4–5.1%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~2.6–4%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.95–1.4%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.85–1.25%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.1–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Propanediol~22–34%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~4.1–6.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Cetyl alcohol~3.2–4.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~3.4–5.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Jojoba esters~2.6–4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Glyceryl dibehenate~2–3.1%
Formula
Albizia julibrissin bark extract~1.5–2.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing

More about Albizia julibrissin bark extract
Squalane~1.5–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Caffeine~0.95–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.85–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
Phospholipids~0.5–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Tribehenin~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan gum~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Glycine soja extract~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Polysorbate 60~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Disodium edta~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Glyceryl behenate~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate
Butylene glycol~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycine soja sterols~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Glycine soja sterols
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Hyaluronic acid~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Carbomer~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Darutoside~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Darutoside
Polysorbate 20~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.1–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.1–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Cetyl alcohol, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Jojoba esters, Glyceryl dibehenate, Albizia julibrissin bark extract, Squalane, Caffeine, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Phospholipids, Tribehenin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan gum, Glycine soja extract, Polysorbate 60, Disodium edta, Glyceryl behenate, Butylene glycol, Glycine soja sterols, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Hyaluronic acid, Carbomer, Darutoside, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
The INKEY List CACaffeine Under-Eye SerumYOUR PRODUCTElizabeth GrantMiracle 02 Eye SerumSkincallDaily Triple SerumSKIN 1004.Poremizing Fresh Ampoule
Match—47%43%42%
Price—$29.00—$9.50
Shared key ingredients—4 of 73 of 73 of 7
Key difference—Heptapeptide-15 PalmitateArginine/Lysine PolypeptideCopper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy Low Medium Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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More alternatives: Physicians Formula 24-Karat Gold Collagen SerumThe Light Salon Hydrating Peptide Serum

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 4 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
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  3. 3
  4. 4
The INKEY List CA Caffeine Under-Eye Serum
The INKEY List CACaffeine Under-Eye Serum

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