The Gruff Stuff The Eye Balm

The Gruff Stuff The Eye Balm

Efficacy62/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin + 9 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Enriched with Persian tree extract, Australian plums and matcha green tea, the balm offers moisturising and detoxifying properties.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.8–2.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.5–5.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5.5–8.3%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.1–3.2%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~1.5–2.2%
Pleiogynium timoriense fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.1–0.35%
Podocarpus elatus fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is missing~0.05–0.3%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.3–2%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–0.9%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.75%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
Evens skin tone
Albizia julibrissin bark extract, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Limited evidence
What the product description says
“Liquorice root helps to reduce the look of pigmentation and dark circles.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product contains ingredients (albizia julibrissin bark extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Albizia julibrissin bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing~1–1.5%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate
Medium risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Albizia julibrissin bark extractA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingHigh~1–1.5%est.
Sodium hydroxymethylglycinateA preservative. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.8–2.8%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Pleiogynium timoriense fruit extractA fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Podocarpus elatus fruit extractA fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is missingMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lackingMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~5.5–8.3%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~1.5–2.2%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butyrospermum parkii butter~5.5–8.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Glycerin~3.5–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propanediol~2.8–4.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Cetyl alcohol~2.1–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.8–2.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glyceryl stearate se~1.5–2.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Stearic acid~1.3–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Albizia julibrissin bark extract~1–1.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing

More about Albizia julibrissin bark extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Carbomer~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder
Sodium hydroxide~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be irritating

More about Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Camellia sinensis leaf powder~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Tocopherol~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Phytic acid~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Alcohol denat. sd alcohol 40-b~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Darutoside~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Darutoside
Pleiogynium timoriense fruit extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Pleiogynium timoriense fruit extract
Podocarpus elatus fruit extract~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

A fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is missing

More about Podocarpus elatus fruit extract
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract
Citric acid~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl alcohol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glyceryl stearate se, Stearic acid, Albizia julibrissin bark extract, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Camellia sinensis leaf powder, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phytic acid, Sodium benzoate, Alcohol denat. sd alcohol 40-b, Darutoside, Pleiogynium timoriense fruit extract, Podocarpus elatus fruit extract, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Citric acid

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