THE FACE SHOP

THE FACE SHOP Dr. Belmeur Total Youth Biome Multi-Purpose Balm

Name: THE FACE SHOP - Dr. Belmeur Total Youth Biome Multi-Purpose Balm
Brand: THE FACE SHOP

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 + 2 more

May help

What the product description says

“A multi-purpose balm that addresses the early signs of aged skin.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.8%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.75%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.7%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.2–3.3%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Glycyrrhetinic acid, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 2 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.35–0.8%

BisabololEffect: LowAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~1.2–1.9%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.35–0.85%

Moisturizing

Side benefit · Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 16 more

Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, panthenol

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.75%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.8%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.35–0.85%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.7%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~22–33%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~4.9–7.3%

Helianthus annuus seed waxKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency~3.7–5.6%

Diisostearyl malateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~2.8–4.1%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.2–3.3%

Lactobacillus ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumA "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking~0.9–1.3%

Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–1.05%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.15–0.5%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.15–0.65%

Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearateEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~3.2–4.9%

Propylene carbonateEffect: LowIs used to dissolve other ingredients and create nice product texture~0.2–0.75%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.55%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.6%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.4–0.9%

Evens skin tone

Side benefit the brand mentions · Glycyrrhetinic acid, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract + 1 more

May help

What the product description says

“Helps brighten skin tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and restore skin elasticity.”

Source: Yesstyle

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.35–0.8%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.35–0.85%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.4–0.9%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Cedrol, Parfum + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

CedrolUsed as a fragranceHigh~1.1–1.7%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.3%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~22–33%est.

Diisostearyl malateHelps to soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~2.8–4.1%est.

Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.35–0.8%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.35–0.85%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~2.2–3.3%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

AMPLE:N Ceramide Shot Double Core Multi Balm

CheaperHigher efficacy · 100/10052% match

$13.93

The Beauty Crop Peptide Calm Moisturising Barrier

CheaperHigher efficacy · 100/10050% match

$15.00

View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~22–33%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Helianthus annuus seed oil~4.9–7.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate~3.2–4.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate

Helianthus annuus seed wax~3.7–5.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seed wax

Diisostearyl malate~2.8–4.1%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Diisostearyl malate

Butyrospermum parkii butter~2.2–3.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Synthetic wax~1.5–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and thicken product consistency

More about Synthetic wax

Bisabolol~1.2–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Cedrol~1.1–1.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Cedrol

Lactobacillus ferment lysate~0.9–1.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Lactobacillus ferment lysate

Isostearic acid~0.6–1.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a nice product texture

More about Isostearic acid

Myristica fragrans extract~0.45–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Myristica fragrans extract

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.4–0.9%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Panthenol~0.35–0.85%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.35–0.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.35–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin toneAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Hydrolyzed collagen~0.45–1.05%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.3–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.35–0.8%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.35–0.75%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Stearalkonium hectorite~0.15–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create an even product consistency

More about Stearalkonium hectorite

Propylene carbonate~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Is used to dissolve other ingredients and create nice product texture

More about Propylene carbonate

Titanium dioxide~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Mica~0.2–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Iron oxides~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides

Water~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Butylene glycol~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glycerin~0.15–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Carbomer~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Sodium lactate~0.15–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Polysorbate 20~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

1,2-hexanediol~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Parfum~0.05–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Benzyl benzoate~0.05–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate

Benzyl alcohol~0.05–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Ingredient list view

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Diisostearyl malate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Synthetic wax, Bisabolol, Cedrol, Lactobacillus ferment lysate, Isostearic acid, Myristica fragrans extract, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Panthenol, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Hydrolyzed collagen, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Stearalkonium hectorite, Propylene carbonate, Titanium dioxide, Mica, Iron oxides, Water, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Carbomer, Sodium lactate, Caprylyl glycol, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-hexanediol, Parfum, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl alcohol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	THE FACE SHOPDr. Belmeur Total Youth Biome Multi-Purpose BalmYOUR PRODUCT	AMPLE:NCeramide Shot Double Core Multi Balm	The Beauty CropPeptide Calm Moisturising Barrier	K-SECRETCollagen Vita Secret Multi Balm
Match	—	52%	50%	48%
Price	—	$13.93	$15.00	$17.50
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 15	5 of 15	4 of 15
Key difference	—	Copper Tripeptide-1	Niacinamide	Copper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "THE FACE SHOP - Dr. Belmeur Total Youth Biome Multi-Purpose Balm" can work well for skin moisturization. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, panthenol, glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen and sodium lactate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, helianthus annuus seed wax, hydrolyzed collagen and butyrospermum parkii butter) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.35% - 0.75%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.35% - 0.80% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.30% - 0.70%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.35% - 0.85%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: titanium dioxide and dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.