The Crème Shop

The Crème Shop What Acne? - Hydrating & Healing Serum

Name: The Crème Shop - What Acne? - Hydrating & Healing Serum
Brand: The Crème Shop

Efficacy81/100IrritancyHigh·

See all ingredients

Works for

Evens skin tone

Glycolic acid, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract + 2 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Vitamin C helps combat external pollutants and fades away acne scars and dark spots.”

Source: The Creme Shop

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, morus alba bark extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.1–0.35%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~1–1.5%

Morus alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties and help even out skin tone, but solid evidence is lacking~0.1–0.4%

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.1–0.4%

Exfoliation

Glycolic acid, Salix alba bark extract + 1 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Glycolic acid exfoliates skin to reveal a fresh complexion.”

Source: The Creme Shop

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.55–1.3%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.05–0.25%

Moisturizing

Glycerin, Methyl gluceth-20 + 15 more

Works

What the product description says

“Hydrating & Healing Serum”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, biosaccharide gum-1.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, vegetable oil.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.8%

Methyl gluceth-20Key active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it~2.5–3.8%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.3–2%

Vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.1–0.4%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.1–0.35%

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency~0.05–0.25%

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.05–0.25%

ErythritolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.2%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.2–4.9%

Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.05–0.2%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.2%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%

Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.15–0.5%

AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.05–0.25%

ArginineUnder-dosedAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.05–0.15%

Anti-blemish

Glycolic acid, Salix alba bark extract + 2 more

Not delivered

What the product description says

“What Acne? .”

From product name

This product contains ingredients (glycolic acid) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Glycolic acidEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.1–0.35%

Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.05–0.25%

Anti-aging

Side benefit · Glycolic acid, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid + 2 more

Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.1–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf extract, Illicium verum fruit extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~1.6–2.4%est.

Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.55–1.3%est.

Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.35–0.85%est.

Morus alba bark extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties and help even out skin tone, but solid evidence is lackingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Illicium verum fruit extractAnise fruit extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.1–0.35%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.05%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~1.1–1.7%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~1–1.5%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.15–0.55%est.

Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.3%est.

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.05–0.25%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.05–0.2%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.01–0.05%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.1–0.4%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

BABOR Doctor Babor Brightening Intense: Skin Tone Corrector Ampoule Treatment

Higher efficacy · 100/10059% match

elmt Gentle Exfoliating Solution

Higher efficacy · 87/10059% match

View all alternatives

User reviews

Would you recommend?

0%·yes

0 of 1 community members would buy it again.

0% would100% wouldn't

Kaley· Mar 2024Doesn't recommend
Don't know about really didn't use very long bc I got better products that I really really wanted to use first lol
Texture
Light
Smell
Light fragrance

What reviewers noticed

Marker shows the average response

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~3.8–5.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butylene glycol~3.2–4.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Methyl gluceth-20~2.5–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it

More about Methyl gluceth-20

1,2-hexanediol~1.1–1.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Propylene glycol~1.6–2.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Sodium hyaluronate~1.3–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~1–1.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Salix alba bark extract~0.55–1.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryExfoliationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract

Avena sativa meal extract~0.4–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of oatmeal extract. Helps restore skin barrier and has antioxidant properties

More about Avena sativa meal extract

Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf extract~0.35–0.85%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf extract

Centella asiatica extract~0.15–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Portulaca oleracea extract~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract

Morus alba bark extract~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties and help even out skin tone, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Morus alba bark extract

Illicium verum fruit extract~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Anise fruit extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Illicium verum fruit extract

Persea gratissima oil~0.15–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil

Vegetable oil~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vegetable oil

Cocos nucifera oil~0.1–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~0.1–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid

Glycolic acid~0.1–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Betaine~0.1–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Biosaccharide gum-1~0.05–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1

Erythritol~0.05–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Erythritol

Carbomer~0.05–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Tocopherol~0.05–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil~0.1–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil

Allantoin~0.05–0.25%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-blemishReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer~0.05–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency

More about Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer

Pvm/ma copolymer~0.05–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pvm/ma copolymer

Arginine~0.05–0.15%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl glycol~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Disodium edta~0.01–0.05%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Parfum~0.01–0.05%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Methyl gluceth-20, 1,2-hexanediol, Propylene glycol, Sodium hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Salix alba bark extract, Avena sativa meal extract, Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Portulaca oleracea extract, Morus alba bark extract, Illicium verum fruit extract, Persea gratissima oil, Vegetable oil, Cocos nucifera oil, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Glycolic acid, Betaine, Biosaccharide gum-1, Erythritol, Carbomer, Tocopherol, Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil, Allantoin, Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, Pvm/ma copolymer, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl glycol, Disodium edta, Parfum

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$4.95

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	The Crème ShopWhat Acne? - Hydrating & Healing SerumYOUR PRODUCT	BABORDoctor Babor Brightening Intense: Skin Tone Corrector Ampoule Treatment	elmtGentle Exfoliating Solution	The Crème Shop x BT21 BABYCHIMMY Clear Glow Essence Serum - Klean Beauty
Match	—	59%	59%	59%
Price	$4.95	—	—	—
Shared key ingredients	—	6 of 13	3 of 13	9 of 13
Key difference	—	Panthenol	Panthenol	Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Irritancy	High	Medium	Low	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	Contains drying alcohol	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop