Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Anti-blemish
- Moisturizing
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Inspired by Ayurvedic origins, this self-warming, intensive brightening mask minimizes the appearance of large pores and helps brightens skin tone and calms active breakouts while relieving redness.
Source: Bluemercury
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: potassium azeloyl diglycinate
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Moisturizing
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, pentylene glycol.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: copper tripeptide-1
A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Derived from brown algae. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
The formula contains highly active anti-aging and clarifying ingredients for a smooth, bright and bouncy glow.
Source: Bluemercury
This product contains copper tripeptide-1. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Key Benefits Brightens the appearance of Skin Tone, Minimizes Pores by regulating sebum production and oil control, provides Redness Relief, Self Warming which stimulates the Pores to open up and absorb serum better
Source: Bluemercury
This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate.
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 83/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes
A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Potential irritants
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Comedogenic ingredients
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Derived from brown algae. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
All ingredients
A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes
A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Derived from brown algae. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
Ingredient list view
Water, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Pentylene glycol, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Unknown, Algae extract, Caffeine, Copper tripeptide-1, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed algin, Zinc sulfate, Niacinamide, Nicotinoyl dipeptide-26, Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Nymphaea caerulea flower extract, Nelumbo nucifera flower extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Succinoglycan, Unknown, Ascorbyl glucoside, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, Glycolipids, Silica, Citric acid, Vanillyl butyl ether, Sodium anisate, Salvia sclarea oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Origanum majorana flower oil
- Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosacea
- A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfections
- Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibrium
- Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-aging
- Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Data
- Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results
- Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin - A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study
- Selected Biomarkers Revealed Potential Skin Toxicity Caused by Certain Copper Compounds
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Safety Assessment of Plant Polysaccharide Gums as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Zinc Salts as Used in Cosmetics
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
- Fragrance Compound Geraniol Forms Contact Allergens on Air Exposure. Identification and Quantification of Oxidation Products and Effect on Skin Sensitization