SKINCITY skincare

SKINCITY skincare First Concentrate

Name: SKINCITY skincare - First Concentrate
Brand: SKINCITY skincare

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Panthenol + 19 more

Works well

What the product description says

“First Concentrate is a serum concentrate that is a must in every skin care routine to moisturise and soothe the skin as well as smooth out skin tone and texture.”

Source: Skincity

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: allantoin, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalene, beta-sitosterol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, panthenol

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.4–6.5%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~2.4–2.9%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.7%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~1.7–2%

AllantoinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~1.1–1.3%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–0.65%

Beta-sitosterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated~0.35–0.6%

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.55%

SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.2–0.4%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4–4.9%

Avena sativa kernel flourEffect: LowA type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier~0.65–0.95%

Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.35–0.6%

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.15–0.25%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.3%

Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.1–0.25%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.55%

Avena sativa kernel oilUnder-dosedAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~1.4–1.8%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.35–0.6%

Evens skin tone

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Niacinamide + 3 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Licorice root extract evens out the skin tone, while powerful antioxidants such as vitamin C provide protection against harmful free radicals from both UV light and air pollution.”

Source: Skincity

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.1–0.15%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.4–6.5%

Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extractEffect: LowLicorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation~0.6–0.9%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.25–0.4%

Anti-blemish

Niacinamide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 5 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Evens out the skin tone and reduces pores and fine lines.”

Source: Skincity

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

AllantoinEffect: LowHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~1.1–1.3%

Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.35–0.6%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.3–0.6%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Anti-aging

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Niacinamide + 6 more

Works well

What the product description says

“It contains 10% niacinamide that evens out the skin tone and fine lines, reduces enlarged pores and strengthens a weakened skin barrier.”

Source: Skincity

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Polygonum bistorta root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties and is claimed by its manufacturer to be able to decrease lines and wrinkles but evidence is lacking~0.45–0.65%

UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.55%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.3–0.6%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Ubiquinone, Squalene + 9 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.2–0.4%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.25–0.4%

Scutellaria baicalensis root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.15–0.25%

Polygonum cuspidatum root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the product~0.25–0.45%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Alcohol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.5–0.75%est.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.1–0.15%est.

Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extractLicorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Polygonum bistorta root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties and is claimed by its manufacturer to be able to decrease lines and wrinkles but evidence is lackingMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.35–0.6%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Polygonum cuspidatum root extractA plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the productMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.45–0.65%est.

SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.2–0.4%est.

Alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Niacinamide~5.4–6.5%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Butylene glycol~4–4.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glycerin~3.1–3.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Panthenol~2.4–2.9%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Sodium pca~1.7–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Avena sativa kernel oil~1.4–1.8%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel oil

Allantoin~1.1–1.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Dimethyl isosorbide~1–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide

Xanthan gum~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin tone

Licorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract

Polysorbate 20~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Sodium hyaluronate~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Alcohol~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Avena sativa kernel flour~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier

More about Avena sativa kernel flour

Polygonum bistorta root extract~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties and is claimed by its manufacturer to be able to decrease lines and wrinkles but evidence is lacking

More about Polygonum bistorta root extract

Glycine soja oil~0.45–0.65%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.1–0.15%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate

Sorbitol~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol

Lecithin~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Beta-sitosterol~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated

More about Beta-sitosterol

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Ubiquinone~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Centella asiatica extract~0.35–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Polygonum cuspidatum root extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the product

More about Polygonum cuspidatum root extract

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract

Squalene~0.2–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene

Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Disodium edta~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Glyceryl caprylate~0.1–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate

Ingredient list view

Water, Niacinamide, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium pca, Avena sativa kernel oil, Allantoin, Dimethyl isosorbide, Xanthan gum, Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract, Polysorbate 20, Sodium hyaluronate, Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Avena sativa kernel flour, Polygonum bistorta root extract, Glycine soja oil, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Sorbitol, Lecithin, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Tocopherol, Beta-sitosterol, Sodium benzoate, Ubiquinone, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Squalene, Caprylyl glycol, Potassium sorbate, Disodium edta, Glyceryl caprylate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	SKINCITY skincareFirst ConcentrateYOUR PRODUCT	IOPEExpert Retinol RX™ 2% Reti-Jection Serum	Dr.Reju-AllAdvanced Retino-Mela Serum	Tree To TubGinseng Green Tea Anti-Aging Retinol Night Serum
Match	—	89%	88%	85%
Price	—	$57.00	$26.77	$25.56
Shared key ingredients	—	7 of 17	5 of 17	7 of 17
Key difference	—	Retinol	Adenosine	Alpha-Arbutin
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	High
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

More alternatives: innisfree Retinol Green Tea PDRN Skinbooster Ampoule Gel Mask 25ml (1 Mask)Medicube Deep Vita A Retinol Serum

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 43 studies and safety reviews.

1
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
5
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
6
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
7
Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
8
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
10
Cosmetic or dermatological use of a polygonum bistorta extractpatents.google.com
11
See all › 15 References See all › 31 Figures Download citation Share Download full-text PDF Restoration of Both Epithelial and Endothelial Perlecan / Dystroglycan Expressions by Polygonum bistorta induces Skin Rejuvenationresearchgate.net
12
Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215 jaad.org
13
Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheresscopus.com
14
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
16
Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
17
Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
18
Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
19
Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studiesinis.iaea.org
20
Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
23
Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
24
The Ameliorative Effect of β-sitosterol on DNCB-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Micebslonline.org
25
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
26
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
28
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
29
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
30
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
31
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
32
Nuclear Factor Kappa B Inhibition as a Therapeutic Target of Nutraceuticals in Arthritis, Osteoarthritis, and Related Inflammationsciencedirect.com
33
Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gelpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
36
Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responsesliebertpub.com
37
Scutellaria baicalensis, the golden herb from the garden of Chinese medicinal plantsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Flavonoids in Treating Psoriasissciencedirect.com
39
Improvement of skin barrier dysfunction by Scutellaria baicalensis GEOGI extracts through lactic acid fermentationonlinelibrary.wiley.com
40
Safety Assessment of Scutellaria baicalensis-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
41
Squalene and its potential clinical useseuropepmc.org
42
Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology mdpi.com
43
Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxidesonlinelibrary.wiley.com

SKINCITY skincareFirst Concentrate

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