PRODUCT REVIEW
SKINCITY skincare First Concentrate
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What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Evens out the skin tone and reduces pores and fine lines.
niacinamide
5.4% -
6.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
allantoin
1.1% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
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Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
It contains 10% niacinamide that evens out the skin tone and fine lines, reduces enlarged pores and strengthens a weakened skin barrier.
niacinamide
5.4% -
6.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
ubiquinone
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Licorice root extract evens out the skin tone, while powerful antioxidants such as vitamin C provide protection against harmful free radicals from both UV light and air pollution.
niacinamide
5.4% -
6.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract
0.6% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Licorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
First Concentrate is a serum concentrate that is a must in every skin care routine to moisturise and soothe the skin as well as smooth out skin tone and texture.
squalene
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
ubiquinone
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
niacinamide
5.4% -
6.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
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Anti-oxidation
ubiquinone
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
squalene
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
scutellaria baicalensis root extract
0.15% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
alcohol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
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Comodogenic ingredients
glycine soja oil
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
squalene
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
5.4% -
6.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Antibacterial,
Reduces redness
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
centella asiatica extract
0.35% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Reduces redness,
Reduces irritation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-blemish
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
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Potential irritants
alcohol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
glycine soja oil
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
squalene
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
All ingredients
niacinamide
5.4% -
6.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Antibacterial,
Reduces redness
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
butylene glycol
4% -
4.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
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Ingredient list view
Water, Niacinamide, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium pca, Avena sativa kernel oil, Allantoin, Dimethyl isosorbide, Xanthan gum, Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract, Polysorbate 20, Sodium hyaluronate, Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Avena sativa kernel flour, Polygonum bistorta root extract, Glycine soja oil, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Sorbitol, Lecithin, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Tocopherol, Beta-sitosterol, Sodium benzoate, Ubiquinone, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Squalene, Caprylyl glycol, Potassium sorbate, Disodium edta, Glyceryl caprylate
Sources
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Cosmetic or dermatological use of a polygonum bistorta extract
- See all › 15 References See all › 31 Figures Download citation Share Download full-text PDF Restoration of Both Epithelial and Endothelial Perlecan / Dystroglycan Expressions by Polygonum bistorta induces Skin Rejuvenation
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- The Ameliorative Effect of β-sitosterol on DNCB-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Mice
- Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica
- Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts
- Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herba
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Nuclear Factor Kappa B Inhibition as a Therapeutic Target of Nutraceuticals in Arthritis, Osteoarthritis, and Related Inflammation
- Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a review
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responses
- Scutellaria baicalensis, the golden herb from the garden of Chinese medicinal plants
- Flavonoids in Treating Psoriasis
- Improvement of skin barrier dysfunction by Scutellaria baicalensis GEOGI extracts through lactic acid fermentation
- Safety Assessment of Scutellaria baicalensis-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Squalene and its potential clinical uses
- Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology