Shiseido HAKU Melano Focus IV

Shiseido HAKU Melano Focus IV

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Evens skin tone
Potassium methoxysalicylate, Tranexamic acid + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This advanced cream targets the root causes of dark spots and hyperpigmentation with a powerful duo of whitening agents, 4-methoxysalicylate and tranexamic acid.”
Source: Buy Me Japan

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: potassium methoxysalicylate, tranexamic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glucosamine hcl.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Potassium methoxysalicylateKey activeEffect: HighCan help reduce hyperpigmentation~22–33%
Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~7.1–10.6%
Glucosamine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.4–0.95%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: LowA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~4.7–7.1%
Moisturizing
Tranexamic acid, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate + 12 more
Works
What the product description says
“Every application nourishes and protects, paving the way for a radiant, even-toned complexion.”
Source: Buy Me Japan

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: diglycerin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: methicone, peg/ppg-14/7 dimethyl ether.

Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~7.1–10.6%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~4.7–7.1%
SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~1.2–1.9%
Sodium acetylated hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid~0.95–1.45%
Glucosamine hclKey active· HumectantEffect: HighMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.4–0.95%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.4–0.95%
MethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduces the water loss from the skin surface~0.35–0.8%
Peg/ppg-14/7 dimethyl etherKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss~0.3–0.75%
DiglycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.4–0.9%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.2–0.8%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.7%
PetrolatumUnder-dosedOne of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss~0.35–0.8%
Myristyl myristateUnder-dosedAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~0.3–0.75%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Serine, Glucosamine hcl
May help

This product contains serine. There is some human evidence that this ingredient helps reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and firmness, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best anti-aging ingredients.

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~1.2–1.9%
Glucosamine hclEffect: LowMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.4–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Alcohol, Menthol
Medium risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Menthol—High~0.05–0.25%est.
Potassium methoxysalicylateCan help reduce hyperpigmentationMedium~22–33%est.
Lauryl betaineHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~2.6–3.9%est.
Rosa canina fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lackingMedium~2–3%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine—Medium~0.15–0.7%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~0.3–0.75%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Potassium methoxysalicylate~22–33%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin tone

Can help reduce hyperpigmentation

More about Potassium methoxysalicylate
Tranexamic acid~7.1–10.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizing

An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally

More about Tranexamic acid
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~4.7–7.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Xylitol~3.1–4.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Lauryl betaine~2.6–3.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Lauryl betaine
Rosa canina fruit extract~2–3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lacking

More about Rosa canina fruit extract
Silica~1.7–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Serine~1.2–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate~0.95–1.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid

More about Sodium acetylated hyaluronate
Hypericum perforatum extract~0.6–1.35%
Formula
Pyrola japonica extract
Not recognized
Potentilla erecta root extract~0.55–1.25%
Formula
Lilium candidum bulb extract~0.45–1%
Formula
Glucosamine hcl~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.

More about Glucosamine hcl
Glycerin~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Artemisia princeps leaf extract~0.35–0.8%
Formula
2-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Water~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dipropylene glycol~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Behenyl alcohol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Alcohol~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Methicone~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduces the water loss from the skin surface

More about Methicone
Diglycerin~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Diglycerin
Isodecyl pivalate
Not recognized
Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate~0.5–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate
Hydrogenated polydecene~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Petrolatum~0.35–0.8%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss

More about Petrolatum
Peg-20~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Peg-20
Hydrogenated oil
Not recognized
Myristyl myristate~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate
Peg/ppg-14/7 dimethyl ether~0.3–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss

More about Peg/ppg-14/7 dimethyl ether
Stearyl alcohol~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Beheneth-20~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Beheneth-20
Butylene glycol~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing
More about Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
Disodium edta~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Citric acid~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Bht~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Menthol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Menthol
Potassium hydroxide~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Sodium citrate~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Potassium methoxysalicylate, Tranexamic acid, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Xylitol, Lauryl betaine, Rosa canina fruit extract, Silica, Serine, Sodium acetylated hyaluronate, Hypericum perforatum extract, Unknown, Potentilla erecta root extract, Lilium candidum bulb extract, Glucosamine hcl, Glycerin, Artemisia princeps leaf extract, 2-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Water, Dipropylene glycol, Behenyl alcohol, Alcohol, Methicone, Diglycerin, Unknown, Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, Hydrogenated polydecene, Petrolatum, Peg-20, Unknown, Myristyl myristate, Peg/ppg-14/7 dimethyl ether, Stearyl alcohol, Beheneth-20, Butylene glycol, Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, Disodium edta, Citric acid, Bht, Menthol, Potassium hydroxide, Sodium citrate, Sodium metabisulfite, Phenoxyethanol

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Buy Me Japan45 g
$99.90
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Shiseido HAKUMelano Focus IVYOUR PRODUCTFormotopiaBFFECT Luz Whitening EssenceKobayashiBe Cura Anti-Spot Penetration EmulsionVENN SkincareRegenerative 10B-EXO EGF Ampoule - Face Serum
Match—30%28%28%
Price——$15.40$250.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 113 of 113 of 11
Key difference—Nonapeptide-1Ascorbyl GlucosideAdenosine
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.

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Shiseido HAKU Melano Focus IV
Shiseido HAKUMelano Focus IV

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.