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Product summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Secret Key - Starting Treatment Eye Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Secret Key - Starting Treatment Eye Cream ticks this box. Glycerin, caprylyl glycol and portulaca oleracea extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide 3, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, beeswax, c12-15 alkyl benzoate and cyclopentasiloxane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (1.90% - 2.30%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide 3 0.25% - 0.45%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (oligopeptide-1 0.25% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Adenosine 0.35% - 0.65%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lecithin, pitera, agran oil, stearic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, jojoba oil and butyrospermum parkii butter
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 11.50A$ up to 26.00A$ in Australia, for 17.99CA$ in Canada, from 11.60$ up to 18.69$ in the United States and for 9.49£ in the United Kingdom.
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because
it
contains
adenosine, niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their
effectiveness:
oligopeptide-1.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed
to
improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can
“erase”
wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following
effective ingredients:
niacinamide
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”: these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, caprylyl glycol.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses
moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels
less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
beeswax, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with
the hydration level: ceramide 3, niacinamide, oligopeptide-1
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (acanthopanax senticosus root extract, adenosine, portulaca oleracea extract).
In theory, they could help neutralize free radicals in skin and lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun),
but there is no evidence that these ingredients can have a noticeable effect in skin.
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
