The Crème Shop But First, Water - Ultra Plump Eye Cream

The Crème Shop But First, Water - Ultra Plump Eye Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Glycerin + 10 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Ultra Plump Eye Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: vinyl dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.5–2.3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–7.1%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.7–5.5%
PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~1.9–2.9%
Vinyl dimethiconeKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA type of silicone that helps to create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–1%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.3%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.45%
CollagenKey activeEffect: MediumCannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products~0.05–0.2%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~22–34%
Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethiconeEffect: LowHelp improve the product's texture~0.95–1.4%
Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.5–1.15%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.8%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Adenosine + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.5–2.3%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.45%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~22–34%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.5–2.3%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~22–34%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Adenosine + 1 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~22–34%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.05–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Citrus limon fruit oil, Aniba rosaeodora wood oil
Medium risk
We flagged 7 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus limon fruit oil—High~0.2–0.75%est.
Aniba rosaeodora wood oil—High~0.15–0.6%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~22–34%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Water~12–17%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.7–7.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane~3.7–5.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane~2.7–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Polymethylsilsesquioxane~1.9–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Niacinamide~1.5–2.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritationReduces rednessAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone~1.3–2%
Formula
Sea water~1.1–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Dissolves other ingredients. It does not have additional skin benefits compared to plain water

More about Sea water
Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone~0.95–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help improve the product's texture

More about Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone
Dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.55–1.3%
Formula
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Sodium chloride~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Vinyl dimethicone~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps to create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vinyl dimethicone
1,2-hexanediol~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Caprylyl glycol~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Citrus limon fruit oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Aniba rosaeodora wood oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Disodium edta~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Pearl extract~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Pearl extract
Collagen~0.05–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products

More about Collagen
Ingredient list view

Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, Sea water, Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, Dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sodium chloride, Vinyl dimethicone, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Citrus limon fruit oil, Aniba rosaeodora wood oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium edta, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopheryl acetate, Pearl extract, Collagen

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
The Crème ShopBut First, Water - Ultra Plump Eye CreamYOUR PRODUCTTONYMOLYThe Chok Chok Green Tea Watery Eye CreamMizonSnail Repair Eye Cream TubeBeyou CosmeticsCaffeine Eye Cream
Match—96%91%91%
Price—$34.60$7.84$18.00
Shared key ingredients—6 of 84 of 84 of 8
Key difference—CyclomethiconePalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4Panthenol
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Low
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "The Crème Shop - But First, Water - Ultra Plump Eye Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Vinyl dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, caprylyl glycol and cyclohexasiloxane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 1.50% - 2.30%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.
  • Adenosine 0.10% - 0.45% in this product adds an anti-aging property to it. Adenosine is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of adenosine in a low concentration reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where we our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

The Crème Shop But First, Water - Ultra Plump Eye Cream
The Crème ShopBut First, Water - Ultra Plump Eye Cream

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.