What's In My Jar
Sarah Chapman Icon Night Smartsome A3 X503 Night Cream
Sarah Chapman

Sarah Chapman Icon Night Smartsome A3 X503 Night Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
11 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Vitamin A, potent peptides and de-ageing technologies deliver fast skin smoothing and glow inducing benefits, addressing all signs of premature ageing and dull, fatigued complexions for the ultimate youth boost.”
Source: Feelunique

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, heptapeptide-15 palmitate, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14, palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.5–0.75%
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12Key activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.5%
Heptapeptide-15 palmitateKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18Key activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.45%
Copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14Key activeEffect: MediumThe copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 is a synthetic peptide developed by ingredient supplier Infinitec, which claims that it can increase collagen production in skin when combined with Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate. The complex was tested in vitro (in a lab) and in a clinical test with 30 volunteers, but the latter wasn't placebo-controlled. The manufacturer reported wrinkle reduction after 28 days of use, but the details of the study aren't publicly available.~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50Key activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.45%
Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~1.7–2.1%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Moisturizing
30 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Always use an SPF moisturiser during the daytime.”
Source: Feelunique

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14, heptapeptide-15 palmitate, palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharideKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~2–2.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.8–7.1%
Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
Copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14Hero· HumectantEffect: HighThe copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 is a synthetic peptide developed by ingredient supplier Infinitec, which claims that it can increase collagen production in skin when combined with Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate. The complex was tested in vitro (in a lab) and in a clinical test with 30 volunteers, but the latter wasn't placebo-controlled. The manufacturer reported wrinkle reduction after 28 days of use, but the details of the study aren't publicly available.~0.25–0.45%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1–1.2%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
Heptapeptide-15 palmitateHero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
LactobacillusKey activeEffect: HighA non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation~0.25–0.45%
Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~1.7–2.1%
Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18HeroEffect: High~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.5%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50HeroEffect: High~0.25–0.45%
Passiflora edulis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the product~0.45–0.65%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~1.2–1.4%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~4.4–5.4%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.6–3.1%
Adansonia digitata seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Tribehenin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.4–2.9%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Polymnia sonchifolia root juiceEffect: LowA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.45–0.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.4–0.6%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.25–0.5%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.5–0.75%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.45%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.5–0.75%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.45%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 strong irritants: Retinal, Retinyl palmitate + 11 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 31 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Polymnia sonchifolia root juiceA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Passiflora edulis seed oilA good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the productHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Rubus chamaemorus seed oilA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Santalum spicata wood oil—High~0.25–0.45%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Lonicera caprifolium extract—High~0.25–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
PhenylpropanolHelps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulationHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.8–7.1%est.
Adansonia digitata seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Polyvinyl alcoholHelps improve the product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Ceteth-20Helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Peg-75 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.25–0.5%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.8–7.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cyclopentasiloxane~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cetyl alcohol~2.6–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide
Limnanthes alba seed oil~1.7–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil
Butylene glycol~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~1.2–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Glycerin~1–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Ribose~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ribose
Retinal~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin tone

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Polymnia sonchifolia root juice~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Polymnia sonchifolia root juice
Adansonia digitata seed oil~0.45–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Adansonia digitata seed oil
Hydrolyzed verbascum thapsus flower~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed verbascum thapsus flower
Passiflora edulis seed oil~0.45–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the product

More about Passiflora edulis seed oil
Hydrolyzed pepper fruit extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed pepper fruit extract
Myristoyl tripeptide-31~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Myristoyl tripeptide-31
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12~0.3–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50
Heptapeptide-15 palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Heptapeptide-15 palmitate
Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18
Copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

The copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 is a synthetic peptide developed by ingredient supplier Infinitec, which claims that it can increase collagen production in skin when combined with Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate. The complex was tested in vitro (in a lab) and in a clinical test with 30 volunteers, but the latter wasn't placebo-controlled. The manufacturer reported wrinkle reduction after 28 days of use, but the details of the study aren't publicly available.

More about Copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Retinyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Ceramide ng~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ng
Bisabolol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Allantoin~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-blemishReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Peg-10 rapeseed sterol~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-10 rapeseed sterol
Rubus chamaemorus seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating

More about Rubus chamaemorus seed oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Lactobacillus~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation

More about Lactobacillus
Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cedrus atlantica bark oil
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Santalum spicata wood oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Santalum spicata wood oil
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract
Lonicera caprifolium extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Lonicera caprifolium extract
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures

More about Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer
Cyclodextrin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier

More about Cyclodextrin
Tribehenin~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Polyvinyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps improve the product texture

More about Polyvinyl alcohol
Maltodextrin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Steareth-20~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20
Ceteth-20~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Ceteth-20
Isohexadecane~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Peg-75 stearate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Peg-75 stearate
Polysorbate 80~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium gluconate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Parfum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sorbitan oleate~0.25–0.5%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate
T-butyl alcohol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating

More about T-butyl alcohol
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Glyceryl caprylate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Phenylpropanol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulation

More about Phenylpropanol
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Farnesol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Geraniol~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linalool~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glycerin, Ribose, Retinal, Polymnia sonchifolia root juice, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Hydrolyzed verbascum thapsus flower, Passiflora edulis seed oil, Hydrolyzed pepper fruit extract, Myristoyl tripeptide-31, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50, Heptapeptide-15 palmitate, Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, Copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Retinyl palmitate, Ceramide ng, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Peg-10 rapeseed sterol, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Lactobacillus, Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Santalum spicata wood oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Lonicera caprifolium extract, Caprylyl glycol, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Cyclodextrin, Tribehenin, Pentylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Polyvinyl alcohol, Maltodextrin, Steareth-20, Ceteth-20, Isohexadecane, Peg-75 stearate, Polysorbate 80, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium gluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Citric acid, Sorbitan oleate, T-butyl alcohol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Glyceryl caprylate, Phenylpropanol, Tocopherol, Benzyl benzoate, Citronellol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Linalool

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Sarah ChapmanIcon Night Smartsome A3 X503 Night CreamYOUR PRODUCTEau Thermale AveneFace PhysioLift: Smoothing Regenerating Night BalmAvènePhysiolift Night Smoothing Night BalmEczema HoneyConcentrated Cocktail Renewal Cream
Match—67%67%66%
Price$129.56$31.27−$98.29$28.00−$101.56$19.95−$109.61
Shared key ingredients—3 of 213 of 214 of 21
Key difference—Ascophyllum Nodosum ExtractAscophyllum Nodosum ExtractColloidal Oatmeal
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Sarah Chapman - Icon Night Smartsome A3 X503 Night Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14, heptapeptide-15 palmitate, glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide ng, limnanthes alba seed oil, passiflora edulis seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride and helianthus annuus seed oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.50% - 0.75%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
  • As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (ceramide ng 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 0.30% - 0.50%, palmitoyl heptapeptide-18 0.25% - 0.45%, heptapeptide-15 palmitate 0.25% - 0.45% and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 0.25% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 98.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Resultsmdpi.com
  4. 4
    X50 Anti-aging Powder Brochureinfinitec.es
  5. 5
    Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Sarah Chapman Icon Night Smartsome A3 X503 Night Cream
Sarah ChapmanIcon Night Smartsome A3 X503 Night Cream
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