Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"Sarah Chapman - Icon Night Smartsome A3 X503 Night Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14, heptapeptide-15 palmitate, glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide ng, limnanthes alba seed oil, passiflora edulis seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride and helianthus annuus seed oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.50% - 0.75%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
- As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (ceramide ng 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 0.30% - 0.50%, palmitoyl heptapeptide-18 0.25% - 0.45%, heptapeptide-15 palmitate 0.25% - 0.45% and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 0.25% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 98.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Vitamin A, potent peptides and de-ageing technologies deliver fast skin smoothing and glow inducing benefits, addressing all signs of premature ageing and dull, fatigued complexions for the ultimate youth boost.
Source: Feelunique
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, heptapeptide-15 palmitate, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14, palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
The copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 is a synthetic peptide developed by ingredient supplier Infinitec, which claims that it can increase collagen production in skin when combined with Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate. The complex was tested in vitro (in a lab) and in a clinical test with 30 volunteers, but the latter wasn't placebo-controlled. The manufacturer reported wrinkle reduction after 28 days of use, but the details of the study aren't publicly available.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Always use an SPF moisturiser during the daytime.
Source: Feelunique
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, butylene glycol.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14, heptapeptide-15 palmitate, palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
The copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 is a synthetic peptide developed by ingredient supplier Infinitec, which claims that it can increase collagen production in skin when combined with Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate. The complex was tested in vitro (in a lab) and in a clinical test with 30 volunteers, but the latter wasn't placebo-controlled. The manufacturer reported wrinkle reduction after 28 days of use, but the details of the study aren't publicly available.
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the product
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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|---|---|---|---|
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Key Actives
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
The copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 is a synthetic peptide developed by ingredient supplier Infinitec, which claims that it can increase collagen production in skin when combined with Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate. The complex was tested in vitro (in a lab) and in a clinical test with 30 volunteers, but the latter wasn't placebo-controlled. The manufacturer reported wrinkle reduction after 28 days of use, but the details of the study aren't publicly available.
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the product
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation
Potential irritants
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
A good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the product
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Helps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulation
Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating
Comedogenic ingredients
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
All ingredients
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
A good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the product
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
The copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14 is a synthetic peptide developed by ingredient supplier Infinitec, which claims that it can increase collagen production in skin when combined with Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate. The complex was tested in vitro (in a lab) and in a clinical test with 30 volunteers, but the latter wasn't placebo-controlled. The manufacturer reported wrinkle reduction after 28 days of use, but the details of the study aren't publicly available.
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures
A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating
An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products
Helps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulation
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating
Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glycerin, Ribose, Retinal, Polymnia sonchifolia root juice, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Hydrolyzed verbascum thapsus flower, Passiflora edulis seed oil, Hydrolyzed pepper fruit extract, Myristoyl tripeptide-31, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-52, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50, Heptapeptide-15 palmitate, Palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, Copper palmitoyl heptapeptide-14, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Retinyl palmitate, Ceramide ng, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Peg-10 rapeseed sterol, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Lactobacillus, Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Santalum spicata wood oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Lonicera caprifolium extract, Caprylyl glycol, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Cyclodextrin, Tribehenin, Pentylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Polyvinyl alcohol, Maltodextrin, Steareth-20, Ceteth-20, Isohexadecane, Peg-75 stearate, Polysorbate 80, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium gluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Citric acid, Sorbitan oleate, T-butyl alcohol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Glyceryl caprylate, Phenylpropanol, Tocopherol, Benzyl benzoate, Citronellol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Linalool
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
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- Amended final report of the safety assessment of t-Butyl Alcohol as used in cosmetics
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