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Sarah Chapman Dynamic Defence Concentrate SPF15 Anti-ageing Cream
Sarah Chapman

Sarah Chapman Dynamic Defence Concentrate SPF15 Anti-ageing Cream

SPF 15Efficacy68/100IrritancyHigh·5 UV filters
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Works for

2 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection
SPF 15 · 5 UV filters · Broad spectrum
Weak protectionSPF under 30
SPF 15Broad spectrumChemical filtersNo white cast

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection, but it is weak. We recommend to use a broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30.

UV spectrum
UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm
Octinoxate
Octisalate
Octocrylene
Oxybenzone
Avobenzone
FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount
OctinoxateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateUVBOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating~5.8–7%
OctisalateEthylhexyl SalicylateUVBOctisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~4.4–5.4%
OctocryleneUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~0.7–1.05%
OxybenzoneBenzophenone-3UVBUVA2Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption~3–3.7%
AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~1.1–1.3%
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels
Moisturizing
19 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Dynamic Defence Concentrate SPF15 Anti-ageing Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Mangifera indica seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.3%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.7–2.1%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.2–0.35%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2–2.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.5–1.8%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.25–0.5%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.2–0.35%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~3.2–3.9%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.5–0.8%
Crambe abyssinica seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.65%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.4%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.2–0.4%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
7 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“Dynamic Defence Concentrate SPF15 Anti-ageing Cream”
From product name

This product contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works. The biggest anti-aging effect in this product comes from sun protection. Sun damage is the main factor causing early signs of skin aging. We, however, do not recommend using this product as a sunscreen because the protection it offers is not strong enough).

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.2–0.35%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.3–0.6%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.3%
Phyllanthus emblica fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrations~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.2–0.4%
Evens skin tone
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Ideal for skin experienced in high potency skincare, this day cream combines a double concentration of actives with a triple skin-brightening complex and cocktail of aromatic oils to plump out deep wrinkles, combat dullness and age spots and firm for a toned, more youthful looking complexion.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product contains ingredients () that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

The biggest effect for evening out skin tone in this product comes from sun protection. Sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations. This is why sun protection is the best strategy for maintaining an even skin tone. We, however, do not recommend using this product as a sunscreen because the protection it offers is not strong enough).

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.3–0.6%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.3%
Phyllanthus emblica fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrations~0.2–0.35%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.2–0.35%
Mangifera indica seed butterEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.3%
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilEffect: LowAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation~0.2–0.4%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.3–0.6%
Phyllanthus emblica fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrations~0.2–0.35%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.2–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
16 strong irritants: Benzophenone-3, Jasminum officinale flower extract + 14 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 35 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~5.8–7%est.
Benzophenone-3Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorptionHigh~3–3.7%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Rosa canina flower extract—High~0.2–0.4%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Benzyl cinnamateFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.7–2.1%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~1.1–1.3%est.
OctocryleneA weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreenMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Crambe abyssinica seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.3–0.6%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
C12-20 alkyl glucosideHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Phyllanthus emblica fruit extractA plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrationsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonateUsed to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.2–0.35%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.2–0.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~5.8–7%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl salicylate~4.4–5.4%
UV filter
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~3.2–3.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Benzophenone-3~3–3.7%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption

More about Benzophenone-3
Dimethicone~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.7–2.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Rumex occidentalis extract~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Rumex occidentalis extract
C14-22 alcohols~0.8–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A non-drying alcohol that helps stabilize product formulations

More about C14-22 alcohols
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~1.1–1.3%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Octocrylene~0.7–1.05%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Octocrylene
Cetyl alcohol~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Crambe abyssinica seed oil~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Crambe abyssinica seed oil
Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Squalane~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
C12-20 alkyl glucoside~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about C12-20 alkyl glucoside
Polysorbate 60~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Sodium pca~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Lecithin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Plankton extract~0.2–0.35%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract
Mangifera indica seed butter~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Mangifera indica seed butter
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Nylon-12~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Nylon-12
Yeast polysaccharides~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Yeast polysaccharides
Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrations

More about Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ubiquinone~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene glycol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cedrus atlantica bark oil
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Teprenone~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Teprenone
Parfum~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Triethanolamine~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Iris florentina root extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Iris florentina root extract
Rosa canina flower extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Rosa canina flower extract
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize the product formulation

More about Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate
Fusanus spicatus wood oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Fusanus spicatus wood oil
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Carbomer~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Farnesol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Benzyl cinnamate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl cinnamate
Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Eugenol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Hydroxycitronellal~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal
Citral~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Ingredient list view

Water, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Benzophenone-3, Dimethicone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Rumex occidentalis extract, C14-22 alcohols, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Cetyl alcohol, Crambe abyssinica seed oil, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Butylene glycol, Squalane, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, Polysorbate 60, Sodium pca, Lecithin, Plankton extract, Mangifera indica seed butter, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Nylon-12, Yeast polysaccharides, Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ubiquinone, Tocopheryl acetate, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene glycol, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Teprenone, Parfum, Triethanolamine, Xanthan gum, Iris florentina root extract, Rosa canina flower extract, Disodium edta, Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, Fusanus spicatus wood oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Rosa damascena flower oil, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Retinyl palmitate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Benzyl benzoate, Farnesol, Benzyl cinnamate, Benzyl alcohol, Eugenol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Sarah ChapmanDynamic Defence Concentrate SPF15 Anti-ageing CreamYOUR PRODUCTVENeffectAnti-Aging Moisturizer SPF 15 by VeneffectExuvianceAge Reverse Day Repair SPF 30 + Retinol Antiaging MoisturizerNo7Protect & Perfect Intense Advanced Fragrance Free Day Cream SPF 30
Match—62%61%60%
Price$84.00$45.00−$39.00$65.60−$18.40$26.99−$57.01
Shared key ingredients—8 of 167 of 168 of 16
Key difference—CyclopentasiloxaneRetinolAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
SPFSPF 15SPF 15SPF 30SPF 30
Drying alcohol——— Contains drying alcohol
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Product summary

"Sarah Chapman - Dynamic Defence Concentrate SPF15 Anti-ageing Cream" offers broad spectrum protection. It means that it protects from both UVA and UVB rays (you can remember UVB as "burning" sunlight - they cause sunburn. You can remember UVA rays as "aging" - they do not lead to sunburn, but they cause photodamage and contribute to early signs of skin aging and hyperpigmentation). On the negative side, the SPF of this moisturizer is not high enough. We recommend to use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily.

Its formula is also hydrating, so you might not need an additional moistruizer during the day.

Sunscreen filters

This is a so-called "chemical" sunscreen. It means that it uses organic UV filters. They typically offer good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for some people with sensitive skin. Here are the exact UV filters in this sunscreen: oxybenzone 3.00% - 3.70%, avobenzone 1.10% - 1.30%, octinoxate 5.80% - 7.00%, octisalate 4.40% - 5.40% and octocrylene 0.70% - 1.05%.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 84.00$ in the United States and from 84.00£ up to 87.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dermatological and environmental toxicological impact of the sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone/benzophenone‐3onlinelibrary.wiley.com
  2. 2
    Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients A Randomized Clinical Trialjamanetwork.com
  3. 3
    On Photostability of Oxybenzonecore.ac.uk
  4. 4
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  5. 5
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  6. 6
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Sarah Chapman Dynamic Defence Concentrate SPF15 Anti-ageing Cream
Sarah ChapmanDynamic Defence Concentrate SPF15 Anti-ageing Cream
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