ROUND LAB Camellia Deep Collagen Cream 50ml

Camellia Deep Collagen Cream 50ml

Efficacy 100/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Based on the ingredients included, "ROUND LAB - Buy Camellia Deep Collagen Cream in Australia - Korean Skincare Online" works well for moisturizing the skin.

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "ROUND LAB - Buy Camellia Deep Collagen Cream in Australia - Korean Skincare Online" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. ROUND LAB - Buy Camellia Deep Collagen Cream in Australia - Korean Skincare Online ticks this box. Glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen, inositol, soluble collagen and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Hydrolyzed collagen, limnanthes alba seed oil, vinyl dimethicone, dimethiconol and caprylyl glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (1.60% - 2.40%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
  • This moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.01% - 0.05%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
  • Adenosine 0.10% - 0.30%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: dipotassium glycyrrhizate and allantoin

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 24.95A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Anti-aging
4 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, adenosine, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATERole: HeroA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
NIACINAMIDERole: Key activeIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2.4%
ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.3%
LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OILRole: Key activeThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.1–0.35%
Moisturizing
12 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethiconol, hydrolyzed collagen.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NIACINAMIDERole: Key activeIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2.4%
ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.3%
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Under-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.45–1.1%
CYANOCOBALAMINRole: Key activeCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.05–0.2%
DIMETHICONOLRole: Key activeA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.15–0.6%
GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–6.1%
HYDROLYZED COLLAGENRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.5%
INOSITOLRole: Key active~0.1–0.4%
LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OILRole: Key activeThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.1–0.35%
ARGININERole: Under-dosedAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.05–0.25%
SOLUBLE COLLAGENRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.15%
VINYL DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA type of silicone that helps to create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Evens skin tone
Brand does not advertise this — the formula does
Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATERole: HeroA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
NIACINAMIDERole: Key activeIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2.4%
GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–6.1%
Vinyl dimethiconeRole: Key activeA type of silicone that helps to create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Camellia japonica flower extractRole: Key activeA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.6–1.35%
Sodium polyacrylateRole: Key activeUsed to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions~0.15–0.6%
DimethiconolRole: Key activeA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.15–0.6%
Hydrolyzed collagenRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.5%
InositolRole: Key active~0.1–0.4%
AdenosineRole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.3%
Limnanthes alba seed oilRole: Key activeThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.1–0.35%
CyanocobalaminRole: Key activeCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.05–0.2%
QuercetinRole: Key activeMight be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.05–0.2%
Soluble collagenRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.15%
Anti-blemish
Brand does not advertise this — the formula does
Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, niacinamide. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATERole: HeroA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
NIACINAMIDERole: Key activeIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2.4%
GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–6.1%
Vinyl dimethiconeRole: Key activeA type of silicone that helps to create a nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Camellia japonica flower extractRole: Key activeA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.6–1.35%
Sodium polyacrylateRole: Key activeUsed to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions~0.15–0.6%
DimethiconolRole: Key activeA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.15–0.6%
Hydrolyzed collagenRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.5%
InositolRole: Key active~0.1–0.4%
AdenosineRole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.3%
Limnanthes alba seed oilRole: Key activeThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.1–0.35%
CyanocobalaminRole: Key activeCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.05–0.2%
QuercetinRole: Key activeMight be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.05–0.2%
Soluble collagenRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.15%
Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Camellia japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.6–1.35%est.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.01–0.05%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~1–1.45%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~1.3–1.9%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~0.45–1.1%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishLow~0.15–0.65%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.15–0.6%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationLow~0.15–0.55%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.1–0.35%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsLow~0.1–0.35%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
Low risk
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Glycerin~4.1–6.1%
Key active
Propanediol~3.2–4.8%
Formula
Butylene glycol~2.5–3.8%
Formula
1,2-hexanediol~1–1.45%
Low-irritation
Niacinamide~1.6–2.4%
Key active
Vinyl dimethicone~1.4–2.1%
Key active
Pentylene glycol~1.3–1.9%
Low-irritation
Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone~1–1.45%
Formula
Camellia japonica flower extract~0.6–1.35%
Key activeIrritant · high
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.45–1.1%
Under-dosedLow-irritation
Isononyl isononanoate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.65%
Low-irritation
Sodium polyacrylate~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Glycereth-25 pca isostearate~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.6%
Low-irritation
Methylpropanediol~0.15–0.55%
Low-irritation
Dimethiconol~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Castor oil/ipdi copolymer~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Hydrolyzed collagen~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Inositol~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Allantoin~0.05–0.3%
Under-dosed
Adenosine~0.1–0.3%
Key active
Sorbitan isostearate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Citric acid~0.1–0.35%
Low-irritation
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.1–0.3%
Under-dosed
Sodium phytate~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Arginine~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosed
Carbomer~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Sodium citrate~0.1–0.35%
Low-irritation
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.35%
Low-irritation
Amodimethicone~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.01–0.05%
Key activeIrritant · high
Limnanthes alba seed oil~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Cyanocobalamin~0.05–0.2%
Key active
Quercetin~0.05–0.2%
Key active
Soluble collagen~0.05–0.15%
Key active

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