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1
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cocamidopropyl betaine
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Helps water and oil mix together. Used as a cleansing ingredient. Could be an allergen
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2
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polysorbate 20
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Helps oil and water mix together
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3
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aloe barbadensis leaf juice
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Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
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4
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cocos nucifera (coconut) oil
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An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
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5
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allantoin
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Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
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6
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tocopheryl acetate
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A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
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7
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citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) leaf/twig extract
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8
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lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower/leaf/stem extract
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9
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glycolic acid
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An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
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10
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lactic acid
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An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom)
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11
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centella asiatica extract
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A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
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12
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glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract
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A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
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13
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saccharum officinarum (sugarcane) extract
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Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
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14
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/extrait de canne sucre,
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The ingredient is not recognized
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15
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salix alba (willow) bark extract
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A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking.
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16
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sodium hyaluronate
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One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
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17
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citrus auranitum bergamia (bergamot) fruit extract
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18
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citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel extract
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19
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panthenol
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Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
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20
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lactobacillus ferment lysate filtrate
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21
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bromelain
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22
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papain
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An enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritating
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23
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citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) flower extract
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24
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coriandrum sativum (coriander) fruit/leaf extract
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25
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rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract
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Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin. Is a likely irritant
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26
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styrax tonkinensis resin extract
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27
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ascorbic acid
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One of the few well researched potent anti-aging ingredients. When it is able to penetrate the skin in an active state, it is effective against fine lines and wrinkles, helps improve skin elasticity and reduce hyperpigmentation. It acts as a powerful anti-oxidant and stimulates collagen production. The main issue with ascorbic acid is that it is highly unstable, in other words, it is losing its effectivenss quickly when exposed to air and light (if a serum or cream containing ascorbic acid has an orange color, it is a likely that the ingredient has oxidized and is no longer active). In addition, it is water-soluble, meaning that it has difficulty pentrating the skin. It is also quite irritating, and can cause stinging. When used in low concentrations, helps stabilize the product formulation
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28
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salicylic acid
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Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
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29
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leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
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A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine
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30
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populus tremuloides bark extract
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31
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sodium polyacrylate
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Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions
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32
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sodium chloride
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Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures
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33
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bentonite
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Helps stabilize the product formulation
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34
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glyceryl stearate
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An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
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35
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peg-100 stearate
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Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
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36
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caprylic/capric triglyceride
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A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
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37
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ethylhexylglycerin
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A preservative
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38
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xanthan gum
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Used to create a thicker product consistency
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39
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maltodextrin
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Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil
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40
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phenoxyethanol
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A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
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41
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iron oxides
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A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating
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42
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ci 77499
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An iron oxide. Used as a colorant. Is usually well tolerated
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43
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ultramarines
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44
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ci 77007
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