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Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Multi-Rejuvenating Night-Time Serum-In-Cream
Philosophy

Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Multi-Rejuvenating Night-Time Serum-In-Cream

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
9 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Treat your skin to the anti-ageing properties of Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Night Serum , a night-time serum-in-cream formula that targets all major signs of ageing to leave skin smoother, firmer and brighter looking.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, adenosine, glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.4–0.6%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.45–0.65%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.35–0.65%
Magnesium aluminum silicateEffect: LowMight be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation~0.45–0.65%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.4–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.45–0.65%
Moisturizing
24 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Our exclusive formula contains patented technologies and ingredients proven to help improve skin regeneration and epidermal repair while helping skin rebuild its natural collagen and rejuvenate its appearance layer by layer.”
Source: Lookfantastic Australia

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.65%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.45–0.7%
Beta-sitosterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated~0.25–0.5%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–0.65%
SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.25–0.5%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.4–3%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.4–0.6%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.75–1.15%
ChitosanKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.95–1.15%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.45–0.65%
AlginEffect: LowUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–0.7%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.65–0.95%
Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~4.3–5.2%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.5–0.7%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.45–0.7%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.4–0.6%
Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–0.85%
CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.75–1.1%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - chitosan, squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.35–0.65%
ChitosanKey activeEffect: MediumInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.25–0.5%
Coffea arabica seed extractEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.4–0.6%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.4–0.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.4–0.65%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–0.85%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.45–0.7%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.45–0.65%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.35–0.65%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.45–0.65%
Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acidKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products~0.35–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.4–0.6%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains glycolic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.35–0.65%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.45–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.4–0.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.4–0.65%
Bifida ferment lysateEffect: Low, below effective doseConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–0.85%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains chitosan. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid

ChitosanKey activeEffect: HighInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.35–0.65%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.45–0.65%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Alcohol + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 31 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~1.7–2.1%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Isopropyl alcoholA drying alcohol. Can increase skin's sensitivity and cause dryness and irritationHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium amara peel extract—High~0.4–0.6%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
Sodium lauryl sulfateA cleansing agent (SLS). It can be irritatingHigh~0.65–0.95%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~5.4–6.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.4–3%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.5–1.9%est.
Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.
T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
ChitosanInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.4–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
BhaHelps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acidUsed to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical productsMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Comedogenic
6 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
6 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
AlginUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.35–0.65%est.
Sodium lauryl sulfateA cleansing agent (SLS). It can be irritating3/5~0.65–0.95%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.75–1.15%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.45–0.65%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.45–0.65%est.
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.25–0.5%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Cream~25–30%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cream
Water~12–14%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Sodium citrate~5.4–6.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Isononyl isononanoate~4.3–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate
Glycerin~3–3.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.4–3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Alcohol denat.~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Steareth-21~1.5–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6
Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate~1.1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.95–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Cetearyl alcohol~0.75–1.15%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Phenoxyethanol~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Bifida ferment lysate~0.55–0.85%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate
Glyceryl stearate~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Steareth-2~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-2
Citric acid~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Iris pallida root extract~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Iris pallida root extract
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Xanthan gum~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Glycine soja oil~0.45–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Alcohol~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
T-butyl alcohol~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating

More about T-butyl alcohol
Lecithin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Parfum~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Adenosine~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Cellulose gum~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Cellulose gum
Retinol~0.35–0.65%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Peg-8~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Polysorbate 20~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Bht~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Chitosan~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Inhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Chitosan
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycolic acid~0.45–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Sorbitan oleate~0.45–0.65%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate
Tocopherol~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Behentrimonium chloride~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Behentrimonium chloride
Limonene~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Potassium phosphate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Coffea arabica seed extract~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Coffea arabica seed extract
Pongamia pinnata seed extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Pongamia pinnata seed extract
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Isopropyl alcohol~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A drying alcohol. Can increase skin's sensitivity and cause dryness and irritation

More about Isopropyl alcohol
Acetic acid~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Acetic acid
Angelica archangelica root extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Angelica archangelica root extract
Citrus aurantium amara peel extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium amara peel extract
Maltodextrin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Magnesium aluminum silicate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging

Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Magnesium aluminum silicate
Lactic acid~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Ascorbic acid~0.4–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sclerotium gum~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Bha~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Bha
Sorbic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Water~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Propanediol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Pentylene glycol~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Alumina~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

The same compound that is used safely in dental implants and bone cements. In cosmetics, it is used to improve the consistency of products

More about Alumina
Iris pallida root extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Iris pallida root extract
Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid~0.35–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products

More about Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid
Silica~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Algin~0.35–0.65%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Algin
Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite
Bht~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Sodium lauryl sulfate~0.65–0.95%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

A cleansing agent (SLS). It can be irritating

More about Sodium lauryl sulfate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Beta-sitosterol~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated

More about Beta-sitosterol
Squalene~0.25–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene
Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Ci 77891~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Iron oxides~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ci 77491~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491
Ingredient list view

Cream, Water, Sodium citrate, Isononyl isononanoate, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Alcohol denat., Steareth-21, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Bifida ferment lysate, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Steareth-2, Citric acid, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Iris pallida root extract, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Xanthan gum, Glycine soja oil, Alcohol, T-butyl alcohol, Lecithin, Parfum, Adenosine, Cellulose gum, Retinol, Peg-8, Polysorbate 20, Bht, Chitosan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycolic acid, Sorbitan oleate, Tocopherol, Behentrimonium chloride, Limonene, Ascorbyl palmitate, Potassium phosphate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Coffea arabica seed extract, Pongamia pinnata seed extract, Sodium benzoate, Isopropyl alcohol, Acetic acid, Angelica archangelica root extract, Citrus aurantium amara peel extract, Maltodextrin, Magnesium aluminum silicate, Lactic acid, Ascorbic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Sclerotium gum, Bha, Sorbic acid, Water, Glycerin, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Propanediol, Pentylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Alumina, Iris pallida root extract, Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, Silica, Xanthan gum, Algin, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Bht, Sodium hydroxide, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Sodium lauryl sulfate, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Beta-sitosterol, Squalene, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891, Iron oxides, Ci 77491

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PhilosophyUltimate Miracle Worker Multi-Rejuvenating Night-Time Serum-In-CreamYOUR PRODUCTCOSRXThe Retinol 0.1 CreamRoC SkincareRetinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night CreamDr Dennis GrossRetinol + Ferulic Anti Aging Wrinkle Cream
Match—77%73%72%
Price$145.42$18.18−$127.24$21.97−$123.45$77.00−$68.42
Shared key ingredients—8 of 193 of 199 of 19
Key difference—3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidEthylhexyl HydroxystearateFerulic Acid
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 37 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Bifidobacterium longumlysate, a new ingredient forreactive skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
  4. 4
    5: Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Steareth-2,-4,-6,-7,-10,-11,-13,-15, and-20journals.sagepub.com
  5. 5
    Amended final report of the safety assessment of t-Butyl Alcohol as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Multi-Rejuvenating Night-Time Serum-In-Cream
PhilosophyUltimate Miracle Worker Multi-Rejuvenating Night-Time Serum-In-Cream
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