Pharmaceris

Pharmaceris N Vita-Capilaril Moisturising & Strengthening Face Cream SPF20

Name: Pharmaceris - N Vita-Capilaril Moisturising & Strengthening Face Cream SPF20
Brand: Pharmaceris

SPF 20Efficacy62/100IrritancyMedium·3 UV filters

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection

SPF 20 · 3 UV filters · Broad spectrum

Weak protectionSPF under 30

SPF 20Broad spectrumChemical filtersNano filters

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection, but it is weak. We recommend to use a broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30.

UV spectrum

UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm

Octinoxate

Tinosorb M

Avobenzone

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

OctinoxateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateUVBOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating~6.3–7.6%

Tinosorb MMethylene Bis-benzotriazolyl TetramethylbutylphenolUVBUVA Photo-stable Tinosorb M. A UV filter. Is effective against both UVA and UVB rays. It also provides some protection against visible light. It is photostable and can also be used to improve photostability of other sunscreen ingredients. Its physical properties help to create lightweight sunscreen formulations. It can leave a slight white cast. Unfortunately, it is not approved by the FDA (US) yet~1.6–2%

AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~0.6–0.9%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Moisturizing

12 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“N Vita-Capilaril Moisturising & Strengthening Face Cream SPF20”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cetyl alcohol.

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.5–1.9%

Laminaria ochroleuca extractKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.9%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~1–1.2%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.4–2.9%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~3.2–3.9%

C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.45–0.65%

Isopropyl palmitate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~1.9–2.4%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.55–0.8%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.55–0.85%

CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.45–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Parfum

Medium risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~6.3–7.6%est.

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.

Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~3.2–3.9%est.

Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~1.9–2.4%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.7–2.1%est.

Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenolTinosorb M. A UV filter. Is effective against both UVA and UVB rays. It also provides some protection against visible light. It is photostable and can also be used to improve photostability of other sunscreen ingredients. Its physical properties help to create lightweight sunscreen formulations. It can leave a slight white cast. Unfortunately, it is not approved by the FDA (US) yetMedium~1.6–2%est.

Hydrogenated olive oil decyl estersHelps stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.75–1.1%est.

PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~0.6–0.9%est.

Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency3/5~1.9–2.4%est.

Laminaria ochroleuca extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~6.3–7.6%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

Glycerin~4–4.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Pentylene glycol~3.2–3.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Cetyl alcohol~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Isopropyl palmitate~1.9–2.4%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Isopropyl palmitate

Potassium cetyl phosphate~1.7–2.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Dimethicone~1.5–1.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol~1.6–2%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Tinosorb M. A UV filter. Is effective against both UVA and UVB rays. It also provides some protection against visible light. It is photostable and can also be used to improve photostability of other sunscreen ingredients. Its physical properties help to create lightweight sunscreen formulations. It can leave a slight white cast. Unfortunately, it is not approved by the FDA (US) yet

More about Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol

Cyclopentasiloxane~1–1.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters~0.75–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters

Niacinamide~0.55–0.85%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Polyacrylamide~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.55–0.8%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Cyclohexasiloxane~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~0.6–0.9%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

C13-14 isoparaffin~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin

Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin

More about Glyceryl polyacrylate

Lonicera caprifolium flower extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera caprifolium flower extract

Decyl glucoside~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside

Allantoin~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Laureth-7~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7

Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract

Timonacic~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Timonacic

Laminaria ochroleuca extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Laminaria ochroleuca extract

Propylene glycol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Xanthan gum~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Ergothioneine~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine

Parfum~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, Cetyl alcohol, Isopropyl palmitate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Dimethicone, Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters, Niacinamide, Polyacrylamide, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, C13-14 isoparaffin, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Decyl glucoside, Allantoin, Laureth-7, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Timonacic, Laminaria ochroleuca extract, Propylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Ergothioneine, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	PharmacerisN Vita-Capilaril Moisturising & Strengthening Face Cream SPF20YOUR PRODUCT	SkinMedicaTotal Defense and Repair SPF 34 - Tinted	REVOLUTION SKINCAREMoisture Cream SPF30 Normal to Oily Skin	La Roche-PosayDouble Repair Face Moisturizer UV SPF 30
Match	—	90%	88%	88%
Price	$11.45	$63.00+$51.55	$6.61−$4.84	$20.99+$9.54
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 10	5 of 10	5 of 10
Key difference	—	Knotgrass Extract	Urea	Ceramide Np
Irritancy	Medium	Low	Low	Low
SPF	SPF 20	SPF 34	SPF 30	SPF 30
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Pharmaceris - N Vita-Capilaril Moisturising & Strengthening Face Cream SPF20" offers broad spectrum protection. It means that it protects from both UVA and UVB rays (you can remember UVB as "burning" sunlight - they cause sunburn. You can remember UVA rays as "aging" - they do not lead to sunburn, but they cause photodamage and contribute to early signs of skin aging and hyperpigmentation). On the negative side, the SPF of this moisturizer is not high enough. We recommend to use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily.

As a plus, this sunscreen uses some of the new generation UV filters (Tinosorb M). These filters are more stable and more gentle on the skin.

Its formula is also hydrating, so you might not need an additional moistruizer during the day.

Sunscreen filters

This sunscreen uses so-called "chemical", or organic UV filters (organic simply means that their molecules contain atoms of carbon). These filters typically give good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for sensitive skin. These are the sun protection ingredients in this sunscreen: avobenzone 0.60% - 0.90%, octinoxate 6.30% - 7.60% and tinosorb m 1.60% - 2.00%.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 8.66£ up to 13.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Isopropyl Isostearatejournals.sagepub.com
3
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
4
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
5
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
8
VOLATILE CONSTITUENTS FROM THE FLOWERS OF TWO SPECIES OF HONEYSUCKLE ( LONICERA JAPONICA AND LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM )semanticscholar.org
9
Ecofriendly surfactant is allergen of the yearmdedge.com
10
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
11
Chemical composition of the essential oils from the flower, leaf and stem of Lonicera japonicancbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenoneonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Studymdpi.com

PharmacerisN Vita-Capilaril Moisturising & Strengthening Face Cream SPF20

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