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Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester 15 Intensive Brightening Regimen
Perricone MD

Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester 15 Intensive Brightening Regimen

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“Brightening skin with less irritation than traditional Vitamin C, the serum also contains Vitamin E to protect while improving the look of discoloration.”
Source: Skinstore

This product contains tocotrienols. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

TocotrienolsKey activeEffect: MediumA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms~0.15–0.5%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: LowBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~6–9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%
Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
No support
What the product description says
“Promoting a brighter, more even toned complexion, the potent face serum penetrates effortlessly, delivering brightening, smoothing and firming properties to improve the appearance of dark spots and scars.”
Source: Skinstore

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (tocotrienols) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

TocotrienolsKey activeEffect: HighA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms~0.15–0.5%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: LowBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~6–9%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sodium hyaluronate, caprylyl glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol.

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.3%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.4–2.1%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.3–3.5%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.85–1.3%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.55–1.25%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.1–3.2%
Isopropyl palmitate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~3.9–5.9%
CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.45–1.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Parfum, Limonene + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Zinc sulfateA preservative. It can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~6–9%est.
Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~3.9–5.9%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~1.5–2.3%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency3/5~3.9–5.9%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.3–3.5%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~1.5–2.3%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Ascorbyl palmitate~6–9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Isopropyl palmitate~3.9–5.9%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Isopropyl palmitate
Cetearyl alcohol~2.3–3.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~2.1–3.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~1.8–2.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Ceteareth-20~1.5–2.3%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Dimethicone~1.4–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.85–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Caprylyl glycol~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Parfum~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Zinc sulfate~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. It can be irritating

More about Zinc sulfate
Disodium edta~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Limonene~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Tocotrienols~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms

More about Tocotrienols
Sorbic acid~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Tocopherol~0.1–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.05–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Linalool~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Ingredient list view

Water, Ascorbyl palmitate, Isopropyl palmitate, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Ceteareth-20, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylyl glycol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Parfum, Zinc sulfate, Disodium edta, Limonene, Elaeis guineensis oil, Tocotrienols, Sorbic acid, Tocopherol, Sodium hyaluronate, Linalool, Citral

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Isopropyl Isostearatejournals.sagepub.com
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    Safety Assessment of Zinc Salts as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  5. 5
    Genetic Architecture of Palm Oil Fatty Acid Composition in Cultivated Oil Palm (Elaeis guineensis Jacq.) Compared to Its Wild Relative E. oleifera (H.B.K) Cortésjournals.plos.org
  6. 6
    Nutrient composition of Nigerian palm kernel from the dura and tenera varieties of the oil palm (Elaeis guineensis)sciencedirect.com
Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester 15 Intensive Brightening Regimen
Perricone MDVitamin C Ester 15 Intensive Brightening Regimen
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