Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Anti-oxidation
- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Key actives
Product Summary
"Permanence - Illuminate Evanesce Pigment Reducing Creme" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Sodium hyaluronate, sodium pca, honey extract and aloe barbadensis extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Cera alba and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 1.70% - 2.60%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.35% - 0.85%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (glutathione, tocopherol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
This cream does not damage the melanocyte like hydroquinone, and it can be an excellent treatment for sunspots and other causes of hyperpigmentation.
Source: N/A
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: alpha-arbutin, glutathione
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, retinyl palmitate.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Might help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin
A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Moisturizing
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
sodium hyaluronate, sodium pca.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cera alba, cetyl alcohol.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl oligopeptide
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin
Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
Anti-aging
This product contains palmitoyl oligopeptide, retinyl palmitate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
No comedogenic ingredients detected
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Permanence Illuminate Evanesce Pigment Reducing Creme | Current | $50.00 | |
 PharmaClinix Lightenex Gold Cream | 52% | $64.49 |
Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
Might help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin
One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
Potential irritants
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Might help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
Comedogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comedogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
Might help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin
One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Ingredient list view
Vaccinium myrtillus seed extract, Cysteamine, Alpha-arbutin, Salmo oil, Curcuma longa root extract, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Unspecified form of vitamin c, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Glutathione, Petrolatum, Cera alba, Unknown, Niacinamide, Collagen, Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, Honey extract, Aloe barbadensis extract, Unknown, Glycol, Stearic acid, Cetyl alcohol, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Elaeis guineensis extract, Tetrapeptide-3, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium pca, Ascorbyl palmitate, Persea gratissima oil, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Parfum
- Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversies
- Glutathione for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based verity?
- Glutathione for skin lightening for dermatologists and cosmetologists
- Efficacy of barrier creams in comparison to skin care products in dental laboratory technicians--a controlled trial
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care