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Permanence Illuminate Evanesce Pigment Reducing Creme
Permanence

Permanence Illuminate Evanesce Pigment Reducing Creme

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Evens skin tone
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“This cream does not damage the melanocyte like hydroquinone, and it can be an excellent treatment for sunspots and other causes of hyperpigmentation.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: alpha-arbutin, glutathione

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, retinyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Alpha-arbutinKey activeEffect: HighMight help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin~4.1–6.1%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.8–1.25%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~1.7–2.6%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.9–1.35%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.35–0.85%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (glutathione, tocopherol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.8–1.25%
TocopherolKey activeEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.5–2.2%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.9–1.35%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.35%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · 14 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sodium hyaluronate, sodium pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cera alba, cetyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl oligopeptide

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.5%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.55–1.25%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.1–0.5%
Palmitoyl oligopeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.85%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.8–1.25%
CollagenKey activeEffect: MediumCannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products~0.35–0.75%
Honey extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.2–0.75%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.5–2.2%
Aloe barbadensis extract· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.2–0.8%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.1–0.45%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.35–0.85%
PetrolatumUnder-dosedEffect: HighOne of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss~0.55–1.25%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–1%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains palmitoyl oligopeptide, retinyl palmitate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~1.7–2.6%
Palmitoyl oligopeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.85%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.5–2.2%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.35–0.85%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~2–3%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~1.7–2.6%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.1%est.
Alpha-arbutinMight help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutinMedium~4.1–6.1%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.9–1.35%est.
GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.8–1.25%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
Honey extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Aloe barbadensis extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.2–0.8%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.1–0.35%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Vaccinium myrtillus seed extract~29–44%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vaccinium myrtillus seed extract
Cysteamine~4.9–7.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cysteamine
Alpha-arbutin~4.1–6.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin tone

Might help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin

More about Alpha-arbutin
Salmo oil~2.9–4.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Salmo oil
Curcuma longa root extract~2–3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract
Retinyl palmitate~1.7–2.6%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopherol~1.5–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Unspecified form of vitamin c~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Unspecified form of vitamin c
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.9–1.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Glutathione~0.8–1.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione
Petrolatum~0.55–1.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss

More about Petrolatum
Cera alba~0.55–1.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Mulberry extract
Not recognized
Niacinamide~0.35–0.85%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Collagen~0.35–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products

More about Collagen
Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil~0.35–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil
Honey extract~0.3–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Honey extract
Aloe barbadensis extract~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis extract
Gel, , sodium tearic acid
Not recognized
Glycol~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycol
Stearic acid~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Cetyl alcohol~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Palmitoyl oligopeptide~0.35–0.85%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Elaeis guineensis extract~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Elaeis guineensis extract
Tetrapeptide-3~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tetrapeptide-3
Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium pca~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Persea gratissima oil~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Potassium sorbate~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Parfum~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Vaccinium myrtillus seed extract, Cysteamine, Alpha-arbutin, Salmo oil, Curcuma longa root extract, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Unspecified form of vitamin c, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Glutathione, Petrolatum, Cera alba, Unknown, Niacinamide, Collagen, Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, Honey extract, Aloe barbadensis extract, Unknown, Glycol, Stearic acid, Cetyl alcohol, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Elaeis guineensis extract, Tetrapeptide-3, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium pca, Ascorbyl palmitate, Persea gratissima oil, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PermanenceIlluminate Evanesce Pigment Reducing CremeYOUR PRODUCTPharmaClinixLightenex Gold Cream
Match—52%
Price—$92.48
Shared key ingredients—3 of 11
Key difference—Salicylic Acid
Irritancy Medium Medium
Drying alcohol——
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Product summary

"Permanence - Illuminate Evanesce Pigment Reducing Creme" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Sodium hyaluronate, sodium pca, honey extract and aloe barbadensis extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Cera alba and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 1.70% - 2.60%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.35% - 0.85%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: persea gratissima oil, stearic acid, niacinamide and petrolatum

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 11 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  4. 4
    Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversiesijdvl.com
  5. 5
    Glutathione for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based verity?ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Glutathione for skin lightening for dermatologists and cosmetologistsijord.com
Permanence Illuminate Evanesce Pigment Reducing Creme
PermanenceIlluminate Evanesce Pigment Reducing Creme
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