Payot Supreme Anti-Ageing Day Care

Payot Supreme Anti-Ageing Day Care

Efficacy41/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“1 x Day Cream 50ml”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, biosaccharide gum-1.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.7–2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%
PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~1–1.3%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.3%
Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.3–0.55%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.2–5.1%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~3.1–3.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.65–1%
Isodecyl neopentanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.~1.5–1.8%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~2.4–2.9%
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1.9–2.4%
Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.4%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.5–0.75%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Supreme Anti-Ageing Day Care”
From product name

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.These ingredients - butyrospermum parkii butter, decarboxy carnosine hcl - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient decarboxy carnosine hcl might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Decarboxy carnosine hclEffect: LowMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.2–5.1%
Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Evens skin tone
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“It combats signs of aging to diminish and smooth away the appearance of wrinkles, remodel facial contours and attenuate dark spots, while restoring radiance and comfort.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (decarboxy carnosine hcl) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Decarboxy carnosine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.25–0.45%
Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.2–5.1%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Orchid extractA plant extract that can be used as fragranceHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
O-cymen-5-olA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
4 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~4.2–5.1%est.
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~3.1–3.8%est.
Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.65–1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~4.2–5.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Ethylhexyl palmitate~3.1–3.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Isohexadecane~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane
Dimethicone~1.7–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Isodecyl neopentanoate~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.

More about Isodecyl neopentanoate
Butylene glycol~1.2–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane~1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.7–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Cetearyl alcohol~0.65–1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Cetearyl glucoside~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Pentaerythrityl distearate~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Pentaerythrityl distearate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Parfum~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite
Phenoxyethanol~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Ethylhexyl stearate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate
Ci 77891~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Decarboxy carnosine hcl~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed

More about Decarboxy carnosine hcl
O-cymen-5-ol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about O-cymen-5-ol
Tetrasodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Algae extract~0.3–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract
Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Sodium isostearate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sodium isostearate
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract
Tin oxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Bht~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Magnolol~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Magnolol
Orchid extract~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that can be used as fragrance

More about Orchid extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Isohexadecane, Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, Dimethicone, Isodecyl neopentanoate, Butylene glycol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl glucoside, Pentaerythrityl distearate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Parfum, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexyl stearate, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Decarboxy carnosine hcl, O-cymen-5-ol, Tetrasodium edta, Citric acid, Algae extract, Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Sodium isostearate, Biosaccharide gum-1, Sodium hyaluronate, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Tin oxide, Bht, Magnolol, Orchid extract

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.

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Payot Supreme Anti-Ageing Day Care
PayotSupreme Anti-Ageing Day Care

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