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Payot HYDRA 24+ Gel-Creme Sorbet Plumpling Moisturing Care
Payot

Payot HYDRA 24+ Gel-Creme Sorbet Plumpling Moisturing Care

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“HYDRA 24+ Gel-Creme Sorbet Plumpling Moisturing Care”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.7–1%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.6–5.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.1–2.6%
Alteromonas ferment extractKey activeEffect: HighA marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking~0.15–0.3%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.65%
UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.35–0.65%
SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.95–1.15%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.35–0.6%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.45–0.65%
AlginEffect: LowUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.8–2.2%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~4.2–5.1%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.6%
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“Utilising a Hydro Défense Complex and a dose of vitamin C and E, the silky cream melts effortlessly into skin, delivering 24 hour hydration whilst enhancing radiance and smoothing the appearance of fine lines and expression lines.”
Source: Mankind

This product contains creatine, serine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.6–5.6%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (creatine, ficus carica fruit extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ficus carica fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~0.25–0.45%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.6–5.6%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.6%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.35–0.6%
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Parfum, Chrysanthellum indicum extract
Medium risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Chrysanthellum indicum extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.5%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.1–1.3%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.35–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.35–0.6%est.
O-cymen-5-olA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compoundMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~4.6–5.6%est.
AlginUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.95–1.15%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dicaprylyl carbonate~4.2–5.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~4.6–5.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Cetearyl isononanoate~3.4–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.

More about Cetearyl isononanoate
Hydrogenated polydecene~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Glycerin~2.1–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Pentaerythrityl distearate~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Pentaerythrityl distearate
Steareth-2~1.2–1.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-2
Steareth-21~1.1–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Cetearyl alcohol~0.95–1.15%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Dimethicone~0.7–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Sodium polyacrylate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate
Parfum~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Propylene glycol~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Trehalose~0.4–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Urea~0.35–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Tocopheryl acetate~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Creatine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
O-cymen-5-ol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about O-cymen-5-ol
Citric acid~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Pentylene glycol~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Serine~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine
Sodium carrageenan~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium carrageenan
Algin~0.3–0.55%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Algin
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Disodium phosphate~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin

More about Glyceryl polyacrylate
Pullulan~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ficus carica fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract
Potassium phosphate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Maris sal~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal
Sea salt~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Citrullus lanatus fruit extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound

More about Citrullus lanatus fruit extract
Chrysanthellum indicum extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Chrysanthellum indicum extract
Alteromonas ferment extract~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking

More about Alteromonas ferment extract
Ci 42090~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ci 19140~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Ingredient list view

Water, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cetearyl isononanoate, Hydrogenated polydecene, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Pentaerythrityl distearate, Steareth-2, Steareth-21, Cetearyl alcohol, Dimethicone, Sodium polyacrylate, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Propylene glycol, Trehalose, Urea, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Creatine, O-cymen-5-ol, Citric acid, Pentylene glycol, Serine, Sodium carrageenan, Algin, Caprylyl glycol, Disodium phosphate, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Pullulan, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Ficus carica fruit extract, Potassium phosphate, Maris sal, Sea salt, Citrullus lanatus fruit extract, Chrysanthellum indicum extract, Alteromonas ferment extract, Ci 42090, Ci 19140

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PayotHYDRA 24+ Gel-Creme Sorbet Plumpling Moisturing CareYOUR PRODUCTCetaphilOptimal Hydration Skin Replenishing Water GelWhite FormulaCPAQUA Super Moist Gel With Hyaluronic AcidUriageThermal Light Water Cream
Match—58%56%55%
Price$39.00—$24.20−$14.80$16.49−$22.51
Shared key ingredients—7 of 138 of 138 of 13
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideAnhydroxylitol
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Payot - HYDRA 24+ Gel-Creme Sorbet Plumpling Moisturing Care" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (urea, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, caprylyl glycol and dicaprylyl carbonate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 105.00A$ in Australia, for 39.00$ in the United States and for 39.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 26 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety Assessment of Polyene Group as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    5: Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Steareth-2,-4,-6,-7,-10,-11,-13,-15, and-20journals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  5. 5
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  6. 6
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Payot HYDRA 24+ Gel-Creme Sorbet Plumpling Moisturing Care
PayotHYDRA 24+ Gel-Creme Sorbet Plumpling Moisturing Care
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.