Paula's choice

Paula's choice Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30

Name: Paula's choice - Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Brand: Paula's choice

SPF 30Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium·5 UV filters

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection

SPF 30 · 5 UV filters

Broad spectrum

SPF 30Broad spectrumChemical filters

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

This sunscreen uses organic (so-called "chemical") sunscreen filters. Organic, or "chemical" filters usually provide reliable sun protection and rarely leave a white cast. Sunscreens with organic filters can sting eyes.

UV spectrum

UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm

Homosalate

Octocrylene

Oxybenzone

Titanium Dioxide

Avobenzone

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

HomosalateUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation7%

OctocryleneUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen2%

OxybenzoneBenzophenone-3UVBUVA2Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption4%

Titanium Dioxide Mineral UVBUVA2 Photo-stable Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin~0.35–0.6%

AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.3%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Evens skin tone

1 ingredient credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“SKIN BALANCING Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense SPF 30 feels wonderfully light, but its broad-spectrum, oil-absorbing formula gives skin a nourishing supply of antioxidants to diminish the appearance of wrinkles and uneven skin tone and to smooth away dryness for younger-looking skin!”

Source: Paula's Choice US

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~2.2–2.6%

Anti-aging

4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“SKIN BALANCING Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense SPF 30 feels wonderfully light, but its broad-spectrum, oil-absorbing formula gives skin a nourishing supply of antioxidants to diminish the appearance of wrinkles and uneven skin tone and to smooth away dryness for younger-looking skin!”

Source: Paula's Choice US

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

This product can also help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.6–0.9%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.55–0.8%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~1.2–1.4%

Moisturizing

Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: panthenol, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cetyl dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.7–1.05%

Cetyl dimethiconeKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA type of silicone. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice, light product texture~3.2–3.9%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.45–0.65%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.6–0.9%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~1–1.2%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~6–7.3%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.4–1.7%

Colloidal oatmealUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation~0.65–1%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis extract, camellia sinensis leaf extract, ginkgo biloba leaf extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating~0.4–0.6%

Camellia sinensis extractKey activeEffect: MediumTea extract. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~1.7–2.1%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~2.2–2.6%

Boerhavia diffusa root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals~0.45–0.7%

Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.3–0.6%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.6–0.9%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.55–0.8%

Colloidal oatmealEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation~0.65–1%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.45–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Benzophenone-3

Medium risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Benzophenone-3Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorptionHigh4%

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.

Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.3–0.6%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium3%

HomosalateA weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulationMedium7%

OctocryleneA weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreenMedium2%

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinateUsed to thicken the product's consistencyMedium~4–4.9%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.4–1.7%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~1.2–1.4%est.

Boerhavia diffusa root extractA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane3%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Homosalate7%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Homosalate

Octocrylene2%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Octocrylene

Benzophenone-34%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Sun protection

Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption

More about Benzophenone-3

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Butylene glycol~6–7.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Silica~5.4–6.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate~4–4.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to thicken the product's consistency

More about Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate

Cetyl dimethicone~3.2–3.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of silicone. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice, light product texture

More about Cetyl dimethicone

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~2.2–2.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Camellia sinensis extract~1.7–2.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Tea extract. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Camellia sinensis extract

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~1.4–1.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder

Ascorbyl palmitate~1.2–1.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Phospholipids~1–1.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Superoxide dismutase~0.7–1.05%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase

Adenosine~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Tocopherol~0.55–0.8%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Bisabolol~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Boerhavia diffusa root extract~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals

More about Boerhavia diffusa root extract

Colloidal oatmeal~0.65–1%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Colloidal oatmeal

Panthenol~0.45–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Ginkgo biloba leaf extract~0.4–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAntibacterial

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

More about Ginkgo biloba leaf extract

Salix alba bark extract~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Titanium dioxide~0.35–0.6%

UV filterUnder-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Steareth-21~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21

Steareth-2~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-2

Polysorbate 20~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Sorbic acid~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid

Ingredient list view

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Benzophenone-3, Water, Butylene glycol, Silica, Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, Cetyl dimethicone, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Camellia sinensis extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Ascorbyl palmitate, Phospholipids, Superoxide dismutase, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Boerhavia diffusa root extract, Colloidal oatmeal, Panthenol, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Salix alba bark extract, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Titanium dioxide, Sodium hydroxide, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Polysorbate 20, Disodium edta, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic acid

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Product summary

We assess that "Paula's choice - Ultra-Sheer Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30" can provide reliable sun protection based on the ingredient list. It can protect from both UVA and UVB rays. This is great news because not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. (UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

Its formula is also hydrating, so you might not need an additional moistruizer during the day. Like all broad-spectrum sunscreens, this product has an anti-aging benefit.

Sunscreen filters

This is a "mixed" sunscreen in the sense that it uses both mineral and organic (so-called "chemical") sun filters. Here are the organic filters this product uses: oxybenzone, avobenzone, homosalate and octocrylene. As for the mineral filters, this sunscreen uses titanium dioxide.

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this product to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.