Paula's choice

Paula's choice CALM RESTORING MOISTURIZER

Name: Paula's choice - CALM RESTORING MOISTURIZER
Brand: Paula's choice

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

24 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“CALM RESTORING MOISTURIZER”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~4.4–5.3%

Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~0.95–1.15%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.55–0.8%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.6–0.85%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.3–2.8%

Hydrolyzed jojoba proteinKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.5–0.75%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.45–0.7%

Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.35–0.6%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.6–1.9%

Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprateKey activeEffect: Medium~1.4–1.7%

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.3–0.55%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.3–0.55%

Whey protein· EmollientEffect: LowA protein derived from milk. In skincare products, might help to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.8–5.8%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%

Tridecyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

Tridecyl trimellitate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.4%

PetrolatumUnder-dosedEffect: HighOne of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss~1.9–2.3%

Linoleic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.65%

Myristyl myristateUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~0.3–0.55%

Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.3–0.55%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–0.65%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (decarboxy carnosine hcl) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Decarboxy carnosine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–0.65%

Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.3–0.55%

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.45–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

16 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~4.4–5.3%est.

Tridecyl trimellitateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.2–1.4%est.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Tridecyl stearateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.3–0.5%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.6–1.9%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Ethylhexyl stearate~4.8–5.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~4.4–5.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Butylene glycol~3–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glycerin~2.3–2.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Petrolatum~1.9–2.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss

More about Petrolatum

Cetearyl alcohol~1.6–1.9%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate~1.4–1.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

More about Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate

Tridecyl trimellitate~1.2–1.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tridecyl trimellitate

Phenyl trimethicone~0.95–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone

Sodium hyaluronate~0.65–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Ceramide np~0.6–0.85%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Cholesterol~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Tocopherol~0.45–0.65%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Squalane~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Dimethicone~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Polysorbate 60~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Hydrolyzed jojoba protein~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba protein

Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein

Avena sativa kernel extract~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Whey protein~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A protein derived from milk. In skincare products, might help to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Whey protein

Tridecyl stearate~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tridecyl stearate

Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate

Myristyl myristate~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate

Linoleic acid~0.4–0.65%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid

Linolenic acid~0.35–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid

Decarboxy carnosine hcl~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed

More about Decarboxy carnosine hcl

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Cetearyl glucoside~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside

Cetyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax

Aminomethyl propanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

More about Aminomethyl propanol

Disodium edta~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Benzoic acid~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Sorbic acid~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid

Ingredient list view

Water, Ethylhexyl stearate, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Petrolatum, Cetearyl alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, Tridecyl trimellitate, Phenyl trimethicone, Sodium hyaluronate, Ceramide np, Cholesterol, Tocopherol, Squalane, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Hydrolyzed jojoba protein, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Avena sativa kernel extract, Hydrogenated lecithin, Whey protein, Tridecyl stearate, Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Myristyl myristate, Linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, Decarboxy carnosine hcl, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Cetearyl glucoside, Cetyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Aminomethyl propanol, Disodium edta, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic acid, Sorbic acid

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Product summary

"Paula's choice - CALM RESTORING MOISTURIZER" has a good moisturizing formula. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed wheat protein and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, cholesterol, linolenic acid, dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.60% - 0.85%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: myristyl myristate, oatmeal extract and vitamin e

Irritation risk

This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.