Paula's choice Calm Lightweight Restoring Cream Moisturiser

Paula's choice Calm Lightweight Restoring Cream Moisturiser

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin + 9 more
Works
What the product description says
“Calm Lightweight Restoring Cream Moisturiser”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: allantoin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone.

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~5.8–8.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.5–5.3%
AllantoinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~1.3–2%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.3–1.9%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~1–1.5%
Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~0.5–1.2%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.45–1.05%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.8–4.1%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.15–0.7%
Laminaria saccharina extractUnder-dosedA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~0.2–0.75%
PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.65%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Vitis vinifera seed extract + 4 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (camellia oleifera leaf extract, vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might contain antioxidants~0.8–1.25%
Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.2–0.8%
Camellia oleifera leaf extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics~0.2–0.75%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~1.5–2.3%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.3–1.9%
Arctium lappa root extractEffect: LowPlant extract. Has some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating~0.3–0.7%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Vitis vinifera seed extract, Beta-glucan + 1 more
May help

This product contains vitis vinifera seed extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.2–0.8%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.3–1.9%
Laminaria saccharina extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~0.2–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 flagged ingredients
Medium risk
We flagged 4 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsHigh~0.8–1.25%est.
Arctium lappa root extractPlant extract. Has some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.7%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~1.5–2.3%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Laminaria saccharina extractA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations3/5~0.2–0.75%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cyclopentasiloxane~5.8–8.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin~3.5–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~2.8–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Bis-phenylpropyl dimethicone~2.1–3.2%
Formula
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~1.5–2.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Allantoin~1.3–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Beta-glucan~1.3–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~1–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~0.8–1.25%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract
Phenyl trimethicone~0.5–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone
Dimethicone~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Arctium lappa root extract~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract. Has some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Arctium lappa root extract
Camellia oleifera leaf extract~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics

More about Camellia oleifera leaf extract
Laminaria saccharina extract~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations

More about Laminaria saccharina extract
Vitis vinifera seed extract~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation

More about Vitis vinifera seed extract
Panthenol~0.15–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Isohexadecane~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Sodium carbomer~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the texture

More about Sodium carbomer
Polysorbate 80~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Bis-phenylpropyl dimethicone, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Allantoin, Beta-glucan, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Phenyl trimethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Arctium lappa root extract, Camellia oleifera leaf extract, Laminaria saccharina extract, Vitis vinifera seed extract, Panthenol, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isohexadecane, Sodium carbomer, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Paula's choiceCalm Lightweight Restoring Cream MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCTDr.Reju-AllAdvanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream Maxe.l.f. CosmeticsFragrance Free Holy Hydration! Face CreamMarudermHyaluronic Acid Moisturizer Face & Body Cream
Match—59%59%58%
Price—$63.93$12.16$21.99
Shared key ingredients—3 of 113 of 114 of 11
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

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Paula's choice Calm Lightweight Restoring Cream Moisturiser
Paula's choiceCalm Lightweight Restoring Cream Moisturiser

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