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Palmers Cocoa Butter Formula Smoothing Lotion Alpha/Beta Hydroxy
Palmers

Palmers Cocoa Butter Formula Smoothing Lotion Alpha/Beta Hydroxy

Efficacy91/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Exfoliation
Lactic acid, Salicylic acid
Works well
What the product description says
“A unique blend of Cocoa Butter, Alpha & Beta Hydroxy Acids, Vitamin E and Shea Butter that exfoliates dry skin cells and uncovers healthier looking skin.”
Source: Walgreens

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: lactic acid, salicylic acid.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.7–5.7%
Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.95%
Evens skin tone
Lactic acid, Salicylic acid
Works well
What the product description says
“This fast-absorbing lotion helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and evens skin tone.”
Source: Walgreens

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: lactic acid, salicylic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.7–5.7%
Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.95%
Anti-aging
Lactic acid, Butyrospermum parkii butter
May help
What the product description says
“This fast-absorbing lotion helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and evens skin tone.”
Source: Walgreens

This product contains lactic acid. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.7–5.7%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.3–1.6%
Moisturizing
Side benefit the brand mentions · Paraffinum liquidum, Lactic acid + 10 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Cocoa Butter Formula Smoothing Lotion Alpha/Beta Hydroxy”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: lactic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, cocos nucifera oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: paraffinum liquidum

Paraffinum liquidumHero· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~2.9–3.6%
Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.7–5.7%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~3.7–4.6%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.5–3%
Isopropyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic~1.5–1.8%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.3–1.6%
Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~1–1.3%
Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.7–1.1%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.65–0.95%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.2–2.6%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.6–0.9%
Myristyl myristateUnder-dosedAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~0.6–0.9%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Salicylic acid
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
12 strong irritants: Citrus limon fruit extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract + 10 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.7–1.05%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.65–1%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.6–0.95%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
MethylisothiazolinoneA preservative. Is a frequent allergenHigh~0.00075–0.0015%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
Butylphenyl methylpropionalA fragrance. Can trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~4.7–5.7%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~1.7–2.1%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.75–1.1%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~0.75–1.15%est.
Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~0.7–1.1%est.
Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Comedogenic
7 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
7 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isopropyl myristateAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic3/5~1.5–1.8%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.3–1.6%est.
Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~1–1.3%est.
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.65–0.95%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~0.6–0.9%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.5–3%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~1.7–2.1%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
iD™: Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion™ + ACC for Fatigue
Clinique iD™: Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion™ + ACC for Fatigue
Higher efficacy · 100/10077% match
Purifying Lotion
CODAGE Purifying Lotion
Higher efficacy · 100/10074% match
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cyclotetrasiloxane~5.8–7.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cyclotetrasiloxane
Lactic acid~4.7–5.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Dimethicone~3.7–4.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Paraffinum liquidum~2.9–3.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum
Cetearyl alcohol~2.5–3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~2.2–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Ceteareth-20~1.7–2.1%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Isopropyl myristate~1.5–1.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic

More about Isopropyl myristate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.3–1.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Theobroma cacao seed butter~1–1.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter
Tocopheryl acetate~0.75–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.75–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.7–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Acer saccharum extract~0.7–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.65–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Cocos nucifera oil~0.65–0.95%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Salicylic acid~0.6–0.95%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
Hydrogenated polydecene~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Trideceth-10~0.7–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Trideceth-10
Parfum~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Myristyl myristate~0.6–0.9%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate
Myristyl laurate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Myristyl laurate
Dioctyl sebacate
Not recognized
Phenoxyethanol~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Methylisothiazolinone~0.00075–0.0015%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Is a frequent allergen

More about Methylisothiazolinone
Sodium hydroxide~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Disodium edta~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ci 19140~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Ci 15510~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 15510
Benzyl benzoate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Benzyl salicylate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Limonene~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Eugenol~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Geraniol~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Hexyl cinnamal~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal
Butylphenyl methylpropional~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Butylphenyl methylpropional
Linalool~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Lactic acid, Dimethicone, Paraffinum liquidum, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Ceteareth-20, Isopropyl myristate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Tocopheryl acetate, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Acer saccharum extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Cocos nucifera oil, Salicylic acid, Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Hydrogenated polydecene, Trideceth-10, Parfum, Myristyl myristate, Myristyl laurate, Unknown, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium hydroxide, Disodium edta, Ci 19140, Ci 15510, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl salicylate, Limonene, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hexyl cinnamal, Butylphenyl methylpropional, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PalmersCocoa Butter Formula Smoothing Lotion Alpha/Beta HydroxyYOUR PRODUCTCliniqueiD™: Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion™ + ACC for FatigueCODAGEPurifying LotionREVOLUTION SKINCAREMulti Acid Peeling Solution
Match—77%74%74%
Price———$13.14
Shared key ingredients—2 of 103 of 103 of 10
Key difference—Glycolic AcidAllantoinGlycolic Acid
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 19 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
  3. 3
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  4. 4
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  5. 5
    A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oilncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Palmers Cocoa Butter Formula Smoothing Lotion Alpha/Beta Hydroxy
PalmersCocoa Butter Formula Smoothing Lotion Alpha/Beta Hydroxy
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