Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
Works for
3 of 3 advertised claims delivered
Evens skin tone1 ingredient credited for this claimStrong support
“The brightening and smoothing effects of rice water aid in fading dark spots over time.”
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Anti-aging4 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Ginseng has anti-inflammatory properties that calm skin and is well-loved for its ability to help reduce signs of aging.”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Moisturizing24 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“As luxurious and pampering as it sounds, this facial moisturizer is enriched with nourishing hanbang (traditional Korean herbal medicine) ingredients like ginseng and rice water to moisturize, brighten and tighten skin.”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, niacinamide, phytosphingosine
Anti-blemishNot advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy2 strong irritants: Calendula officinalis flower extract, ParfumMedium risk
Comedogenic4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale4 flagged
User reviews
Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~45–55%
Glycerin~4.5–5.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinButylene glycol~4–4.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Butylene glycolNiacinamide~3.1–3.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
More about NiacinamideDipentaerythrityl hexa c5-9 acid esters~2.3–2.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Sodium hyaluronate~1.9–2.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
More about Sodium hyaluronateXanthan gum~1.6–1.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumCyclopentasiloxane~1.5–1.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
More about CyclopentasiloxaneCyclohexasiloxane~1.2–1.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels
More about CyclohexasiloxanePolyacrylate-13~1–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation
More about Polyacrylate-13Polyisobutene~0.7–1.1%
Polysorbate 20~0.6–0.85%
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.5–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.
More about Hydrogenated lecithinC14-28 alkyl acid~0.45–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Stearyl alcohol~0.5–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin
More about Stearyl alcoholBehenyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
More about Behenyl alcoholDimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.4–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture
More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymerDimethicone~0.45–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
More about DimethiconeAdenosine~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
More about AdenosineGlyceryl stearate se~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
More about Glyceryl stearate seCetearyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
More about Cetearyl alcoholPolyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps water and oil mix together
More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateCetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of silicone that helps water and oil mix together. Can help to soften upper layer of the skin
More about Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethiconeStearic acid~0.4–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
More about Stearic acidTocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetateSodium polyacrylate~0.3–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions
More about Sodium polyacrylateOlea europaea fruit oil~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
More about Olea europaea fruit oilHelianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
More about Helianthus annuus seed oilCentella asiatica extract~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
More about Centella asiatica extractHippophae rhamnoides oil~0.3–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
A good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.
More about Hippophae rhamnoides oilArgania spinosa kernel oil~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties
More about Argania spinosa kernel oilButyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
More about Butyrospermum parkii butterCeramide np~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
More about Ceramide npTrehalose~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
More about TrehaloseCalendula officinalis flower extract~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating
More about Calendula officinalis flower extractCaprylhydroxamic acid~0.2–0.4%
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.4%
Raphanus sativus leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Oryza sativa bran extract~0.2–0.4%
Cucurbitaceae extract~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Orchid extract~0.2–0.35%
Honey extract~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Honey extractPanax ginseng root extract~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating
More about Panax ginseng root extractCarthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oilPhytosphingosine~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
More about PhytosphingosineCeteareth-20~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties
More about Ceteareth-20Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate~0.1–0.15%
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumIngredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl hexa c5-9 acid esters, Sodium hyaluronate, Xanthan gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated lecithin, C14-28 alkyl acid, Stearyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl stearate se, Cetearyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone, Stearic acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium polyacrylate, Olea europaea fruit oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Centella asiatica extract, Hippophae rhamnoides oil, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Ceramide np, Trehalose, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Caprylhydroxamic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, Raphanus sativus leaf extract, Oryza sativa bran extract, Cucurbitaceae extract, Orchid extract, Honey extract, Panax ginseng root extract, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate, Parfum
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| Beauty of JoseonDynasty CreamYOUR PRODUCT | Rephrintense hydration cream 1.0 | LumeneNordic Ageless [AJATON] Radiant Youth Night Cream | MAXCLINICCollarich Intensive Cream | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 89% | 87% | 87% |
| Price | $20.50 | — | $56.72+$36.22 | $18.00−$2.50 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 7 of 16 | 9 of 16 | 10 of 16 |
| Key difference | — | Ceramide Ng | Copper Heptapeptide-14 Pantothenate | Acetylphytosphingosine |
| Irritancy | Medium | Medium | Medium | Medium |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
Product summary
Based on the ingredients included, "Olive Kollection - Beauty of Joseon, Dynasty Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Olive Kollection - Beauty of Joseon, Dynasty Cream ticks this box. Glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, honey extract and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, phytosphingosine, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, hippophae rhamnoides oil and dimethicone) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 3.10% - 3.70%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.
- As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.20% - 0.35% and ceramide np 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
- Adenosine 0.30% - 0.55%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 31 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 5
- 6
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