Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"NIA24 - Skin Strengthening Complex" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, sucrose, hydrolyzed soy protein and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide 2, ceramide 3, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, oenothera biennis oil and triticum vulgare germ oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.25% - 0.45%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (ceramide 3 0.30% - 0.55% and ceramide 2 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 0.25% - 0.50%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 65.10$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
DermaxylTM Peptide Complex visibly eases deeper wrinklesand expression lines.
Source: Skinstore
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Ceramides reinforce the skin barrier to maximize themoisture-holding capacity for smoother, firmer skin.
Source: Skinstore
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, squalane.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 2, ceramide 3, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency
Used to create a nice product consistency
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Pro-NiacinTM is clinically shown to visibly improve skin tone, texture and hyperpigmentation.
Source: Skinstore
This product contains ingredients (glycine soja seed extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 83/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Myristyl nicotinate, Olea europaea fruit oil, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Squalane, Butylene glycol, Dimethicone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glyceryl stearate se, Cetyl alcohol, Glycerin, Polyacrylamide, Oenothera biennis oil, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Polysorbate 60, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Glycine soja seed extract, Ranunculus ficaria extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Retinyl palmitate, C13-14 isoparaffin, Ceramide 2, Peg-10 phytosterol, Ceramide 3, Dimethicone crosspolymer-3, Tribehenin, Sodium hyaluronate, Laureth-7, Parfum, Hydrogenated lecithin, Sucrose, Xanthan gum, Peg-8, Unknown, Glycol, Unknown, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Soy isoflavones, Ursolic acid, Ilomastat, Propylene glycol, Dehydroacetic acid, Benzyl alcohol, Caprylyl glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene glycol, Bht
- Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responses
- Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmetics
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activity
- Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active components
- Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmetics
- Ursolic acid
- Simultaneous effect of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid on epidermal permeability barrier function and epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via peroxisome proliferator‐activated receptor‐α
- Liposome-encapsulated ursolic acid increases ceramides and collagen in human skin cells
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- 4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid