NEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC

NEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC Agecure Intensive New Age Cream

Name: NEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC - Agecure Intensive New Age Cream
Brand: NEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

Adenosine, Niacinamide + 9 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, madecassoside, palmitoyl tripeptide-5.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.7%

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetateKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.4–2.9%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%

Galactomyces ferment filtrateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.2–0.4%

Moisturizing

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, Niacinamide + 34 more

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, copernicia cerifera wax.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, madecassoside, niacinamide, palmitoyl tripeptide-5

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–2.4%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.4–2.9%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetateHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.5–0.75%

Copernicia cerifera waxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.45–0.7%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.7%

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.3%

XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.2–0.4%

Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.2–0.4%

Propolis extractKey activeEffect: MediumA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Royal jelly extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products~0.2–0.4%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%

Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.8%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.4–0.6%

Lupinus albus seed extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.45%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.2–0.4%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.95–1.15%

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~5.2–6.4%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.25–0.5%

Galactomyces ferment filtrateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores~0.2–0.4%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%

Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.6–0.9%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Madecassoside, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 8 more

Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.3%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%

Propolis extractEffect: LowA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Anemarrhena asphodeloides root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Madecassoside + 3 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.3%

Bifida ferment lysateEffect: Low, below effective doseConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Centella asiatica extract + 1 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%

Galactomyces ferment filtrateEffect: Low, below effective doseA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Medium risk

We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~3.1–3.8%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.95%est.

Methyl glucose sesquistearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Lupinus albus seed extractA plant extract that helps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Royal jelly extractA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee productsMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Caprylhydroxamic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~2.4–2.9%est.

Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~1.6–2%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.5–0.8%est.

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.4–0.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~5.2–6.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate

Dipropylene glycol~4.1–5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Canola oil~3.1–3.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil

Butyrospermum parkii butter~2.4–2.9%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Glycerin~2–2.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Hydrogenated vegetable oil~1.6–2%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Niacinamide~1.4–1.7%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Ethylhexyl ethylhexanoate~1.1–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ethylhexyl ethylhexanoate

Behenyl alcohol~0.95–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.6–0.95%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Stearic acid~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Dimethicone~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Cetearyl alcohol~0.5–0.8%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Glyceryl stearate se~0.4–0.6%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se

Methyl glucose sesquistearate~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Methyl glucose sesquistearate

Copernicia cerifera wax~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Copernicia cerifera wax

Polyacrylate-13~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation

More about Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to improve the product consistency

More about Polyisobutene

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Carbomer~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Tromethamine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Adenosine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Butylene glycol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Sorbitan isostearate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil

Olea europaea fruit oil~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Hydrolyzed collagen~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen

Hydrogenated polyisobutene~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Galactomyces ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMattifyingAnti-blemish

A yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores

More about Galactomyces ferment filtrate

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Xylitylglucoside~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol

Bifida ferment lysate~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate

1,2-hexanediol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Lupinus albus seed extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant extract that helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lupinus albus seed extract

Glucose~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Royal jelly extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products

More about Royal jelly extract

Centella asiatica extract~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces irritationReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate

Hydrolyzed elastin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrolyzed elastin

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Propolis extract~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5

Snail secretion filtrate

Not recognized

Pearl extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pearl extract

Tuber magnatum extract~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tuber magnatum extract

Caprylhydroxamic acid~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Caprylhydroxamic acid

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Anemarrhena asphodeloides root extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Anemarrhena asphodeloides root extract

Madecassoside~0.15–0.3%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract

Disodium edta~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ingredient list view

Water, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Dipropylene glycol, Canola oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Niacinamide, Ethylhexyl ethylhexanoate, Behenyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Stearic acid, Dimethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate se, Methyl glucose sesquistearate, Copernicia cerifera wax, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan gum, Adenosine, Polysorbate 20, Butylene glycol, Sorbitan isostearate, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Olea europaea fruit oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydrolyzed collagen, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Galactomyces ferment filtrate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Hydrogenated lecithin, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Bifida ferment lysate, 1,2-hexanediol, Lupinus albus seed extract, Glucose, Caprylyl glycol, Royal jelly extract, Centella asiatica extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Aspergillus/rice ferment filtrate, Hydrolyzed elastin, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Propolis extract, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Unknown, Pearl extract, Tuber magnatum extract, Caprylhydroxamic acid, Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, Tocopherol, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Anemarrhena asphodeloides root extract, Madecassoside, Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, Disodium edta, Phenoxyethanol

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	NEOGEN X SUR.MEDICAgecure Intensive New Age CreamYOUR PRODUCT	TOSOWOONGCica Snail Cream	The SaemSnail Essential EX Wrinkle Solution Multi Cream	RejuranTurnover Cream Enhanced 50ml
Match	—	74%	74%	73%
Price	—	$16.40	$23.00	$24.54
Shared key ingredients	—	9 of 18	11 of 18	9 of 18
Key difference	—	Copper Tripeptide-1	Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester	Pentapeptide-18
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"NEOGEN X SUR. MEDIC - Agecure Intensive New Age Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, anhydroxylitol, glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen and sodium hyaluronate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Hydrolyzed collagen, butyrospermum parkii butter, copernicia cerifera wax, dimethicone and helianthus annuus seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.15% - 0.30%, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate 0.20% - 0.35% and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.20% - 0.35%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Adenosine 0.20% - 0.35%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.15% - 0.30% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, centella asiatica extract, bifida ferment lysate, pitera, caprylic/capric triglyceride and stearic acid

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 49 studies and safety reviews.

1
Canola Oilsciencedirect.com
2
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
6
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
7
Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
8
Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
9
Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europesciencedirect.com
10
Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
12
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Moringa oleifera seed oil: Composition, nutritional aspects and health attributesresearchgate.net
14
Moringa oleifera Seeds and Oil: Characteristics and Uses for Human Healthncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Effects of galactomyces ferment filtrate on epidermal barrier marker caspase-14 in human skin cells.doi.org
17
Galactomyces fermentation filtrate prevents T helper 2-mediated reduction of filaggrin in an aryl hydrocarbon receptor-dependent manneronlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
The Effects of Essence-Formed Cosmetic Ingredients Containing the Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate on Skin Improvements in Keratinization, Pores, Sebum Excretion, Brightness and Acnee-ajbc.org
19
Antioxidants cinnamaldehyde and Galactomyces fermentation filtrate downregulate senescence marker CDKN2A/p16INK4A via NRF2 activation in keratinocytesjdsjournal.com
20
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Suppresses Reactive Oxygen Species Generation and Promotes Cellular Redox Balance in Human Melanocytes via Nrf2-ARE Pathwaypdfs.semanticscholar.org
21
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Suppresses Melanization and Oxidative Stress in Epidermal Melanocytesetd.ohiolink.edu
22
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
24
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
Bifidobacterium longumlysate, a new ingredient forreactive skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
28
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
31
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
33
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
34
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
35
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
37
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
39
Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivativesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
40
Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studiesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Propolis: A Wonder Bees Product and Its Pharmacological Potentialsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
42
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
43
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
44
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
45
Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
46
Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stressonlinelibrary.wiley.com
47
Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammationmdpi.com
48
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
49
Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulationstandfonline.com

NEOGEN X SUR.MEDICAgecure Intensive New Age Cream

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