Monika Blunder Beauty UnderCover Face Cream

Monika Blunder Beauty UnderCover Face Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
22 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“UnderCover Face Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–4.7%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%
PantolactoneKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.15%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.6–0.9%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~1.2–1.5%
Hydrogenated vegetable glyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~2–2.4%
Decyl oleateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.75–1.15%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.4–2.9%
Coco-caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~3.1–3.8%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.45%
Bupleurum falcatum root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but it is not well studied. It can be irritating~0.3–0.55%
Hydrogenated palm glycerides· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~0.5–0.75%
Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~6.7–8.2%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~0.65–0.95%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.55–0.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Rosa damascena flower oil + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~6.7–8.2%est.
Bupleurum falcatum root extractA plant extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but it is not well studied. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Pinus cembra wood extractA fragrant extract. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Arnica montana flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skinHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Rhododendron ferrugineum extract—High~0.05–0.1%est.
Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~3.1–3.8%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~1.2–1.5%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1–1.2%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.7–2.1%est.
Decyl oleateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.75–1.15%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Rosa damascena flower water~6.7–8.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Glycerin~3.9–4.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Coco-caprylate~3.1–3.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate
Cetyl alcohol~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.7–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Pentylene glycol~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Vitis vinifera seed oil~1.2–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Potassium cetyl phosphate~1–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Decyl oleate~0.75–1.15%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Decyl oleate
Dicaprylyl carbonate~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Squalane~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Rosa canina fruit oil~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Panthenol~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Hydrogenated palm glycerides~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Hydrogenated palm glycerides
Maltodextrin~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Astragalus membranaceus root extract~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Atractylodes macrocephala root extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Bupleurum falcatum root extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but it is not well studied. It can be irritating

More about Bupleurum falcatum root extract
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Gellan gum~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to improve the product texture

More about Gellan gum
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Leontopodium alpinum flower/leaf extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Pinus cembra wood extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

A fragrant extract. Can be irritating

More about Pinus cembra wood extract
Arnica montana flower extract~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skin

More about Arnica montana flower extract
Pantolactone~0.1–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Pantolactone
Rhododendron ferrugineum extract~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Ingredient list view

Water, Rosa damascena flower water, Glycerin, Coco-caprylate, Cetyl alcohol, Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Pentylene glycol, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Decyl oleate, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Squalane, Rosa canina fruit oil, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated palm glycerides, Maltodextrin, Astragalus membranaceus root extract, Atractylodes macrocephala root extract, Bupleurum falcatum root extract, Xanthan gum, Gellan gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Citric acid, Caprylyl glycol, Rosa damascena flower oil, Biosaccharide gum-1, Leontopodium alpinum flower/leaf extract, Pinus cembra wood extract, Arnica montana flower extract, Pantolactone, Rhododendron ferrugineum extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Monika Blunder BeautyUnderCover Face CreamYOUR PRODUCTBABORHSR Lifting Cream RichDr. Barbara SturmBrightening Face Cream23 years oldBakuchiol A Cream
Match—61%60%59%
Price$112.37$84.21−$28.16$140.00+$27.63$24.71−$87.66
Shared key ingredients—7 of 114 of 115 of 11
Key difference—Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol—— Contains drying alcohol —
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Product summary

"Monika Blunder Beauty - UnderCover Face Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Monika Blunder Beauty - UnderCover Face Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin, pantolactone and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Vitis vinifera seed oil, butyrospermum parkii butter, helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 85.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
Monika Blunder Beauty UnderCover Face Cream
Monika Blunder BeautyUnderCover Face Cream

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