PRODUCT REVIEW
Mesoestetic Dermamelan Treatment Maintenance Cream
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What can the product work for?
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Dermamelan Treatment Maintenance Cream is an extremely effective lightening cream designed to reduce hyperpigmentation.
retinol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
ferulic acid
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
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Anti-blemish
retinol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
niacinamide
0.8% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
retinyl palmitate
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Anti-aging
retinol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
ferulic acid
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
hydroxydecyl ubiquinone
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
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Exfoliation
retinol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
retinyl palmitate
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Moisturizing
mannitol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
cholesterol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
glycerin
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Anti-oxidation
ferulic acid
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
hydroxydecyl ubiquinone
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
retinol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
retinol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
retinyl palmitate
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
coconut alkanes
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin
User reviews (0)
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| WIMJ similarity score |
71%
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
0.8% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Antibacterial,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
retinol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Potential irritants
retinol
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
retinyl palmitate
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
coconut alkanes
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin
All ingredients
glyceryl stearate
4.8% -
5.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Glyceryl stearate, Glycofurol, Silica, Peg-75 stearate, Peg-8, Polyamide-5, Kojic dipalmitate, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, Ethoxydiglycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Octyldodecanol, Ppg-15 stearyl ether, 4-butylresorcinol, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glyceryl behenate, Poloxamer 338, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Dihydroxychalcone sulfonic acid, Piper nigrum fruit extract, Retinol, Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Retinyl palmitate, Diosmine, Ferulic acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Silica dimethyl silylate, Coconut alkanes, Ppg-12/smdi copolymer, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Glycerin, Cholesterol, Sodium hydroxide, Polysorbate 80, Xanthan gum, Bht, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium metabisulfite, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Parfum, Caramel
Sources
- Safety Assessment of Glycerin Ethoxylates as Used in Cosmetics
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Final report on the safety assessment of PPG-11 and PPG-15 stearyl ethers
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis to hydroxydecyl ubiquinone (idebenone) following application of anti-ageing cosmetic cream
- Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
- Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies
- Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Property
- Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin
- Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Application
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions