PRODUCT REVIEW
Melyon Night Cream - Vitamin A, Allantoin, Papain
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-oxidation
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Can it cause trouble?
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Containing vitamin A to repair and strengthen collagen production, Melyon Night Cream is the perfect overnight pick-me-up for thirsty, ageing or damaged skin.
serine
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
acetyl hexapeptide-37
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
retinyl palmitate
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Night Cream .
calcium pantothenate
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity
alpha-glucan oligosaccharide
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
sodium hyaluronate
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
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Evens skin tone
retinyl palmitate
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
alanine
0.15% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
niacinamide
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Anti-oxidation
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
pyridoxine hcl
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Might help neutralize free radicals in skin
tocopherol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
Rich with peptides such as Allantoin and Papain, it also removes dead cells while you sleep.
urea
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
papain
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritating
retinyl palmitate
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
75/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
retinyl palmitate
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
papain
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Exfoliation
An enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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| WIMJ similarity score |
73%
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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LOW
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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HIGH
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
allantoin
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Exfoliation
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
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Potential irritants
retinyl palmitate
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
papain
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Exfoliation
An enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
glyceryl stearate citrate
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
dicaprylyl ether
4.2% -
5.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients
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Ingredient list view
Water, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Dicaprylyl ether, Glycerin, Propanediol, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Adansonia digitata oil, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Inulin, Brassica oleracea italica extract, Bioflavonoids, Retinyl palmitate, Niacinamide, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Sodium hyaluronate, Calcium pantothenate, Sodium starch octenylsuccinate, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Aloe barbadensis extract, Papain, Maltodextrin, Allantoin, Pyridoxine hcl, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene glycol, Parfum, Benzoic acid, Dehydroacetic acid, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Urea, Magnesium lactate, Tocopheryl acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium lactate, Tocopherol, Serine, Magnesium chloride, Proline, Alanine, Silica, Sodium citrate, Acetyl hexapeptide-37
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Fatty acid composition and metal content of Adansonia digitata seeds and seed oil
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Probiotics and prebiotics potential for the care of skin, female urogenital tract, and respiratory tract
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Calcium pantothenate modulates gene expression in proliferating human dermal fibroblasts
- Dexpanthenol Modulates Gene Expression in Skin Wound Healing in vivo
- Dexapanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- 4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid
- Topical urea in skincare: A review
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin