MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson Retinol Vitamin C Concentrate

MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson Retinol Vitamin C Concentrate

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Evens skin tone
Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Vitamin C refines skin texture to brighten and even skin tone, while smoothing the appearance of fine lines.”
Source: MD complete

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.4–0.9%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.45–1.05%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.05–0.25%
Anti-aging
Retinol, Tocotrienols + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Retinol Vitamin C Concentrate”
From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: tocotrienols.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.4–0.9%
TocotrienolsKey activeEffect: MediumA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms~0.3–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.45–1.05%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.05–0.25%
Exfoliation
Retinol
Works well
What the product description says
“Vitamin C refines skin texture to brighten and even skin tone, while smoothing the appearance of fine lines.”
Source: MD complete

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.4–0.9%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Rubus idaeus seed oil, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil + 8 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol, tocotrienols) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - rubus idaeus seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Rubus idaeus seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~1.7–2.5%
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~1.2–1.8%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.4–0.9%
TocotrienolsKey activeEffect: HighA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms~0.3–0.7%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~22–34%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.6%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.65%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.45–1.05%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.05–0.25%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Retinol, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.4–0.9%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.6%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Cucurbita pepo seed oil + 8 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, squalane.

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~22–34%
Cucurbita pepo seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.5–6.7%
Nigella sativa seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid~4.3–6.5%
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~1.2–1.8%
Solanum lycopersicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and, due to the high linoleic acid content, can support the skin's barrier function~0.5–1.2%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.4–0.9%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.15–0.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.45–1.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
12 strong irritants: Citrus paradisi peel oil, Citrus grandis peel extract + 10 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus paradisi peel oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~3.4–5.1%est.
Citrus grandis peel extractAn aromatic irritating plant extract that can cause photosensitivity in skinHigh~2.4–3.7%est.
Citrus paradisi peel extract—High~1.3–1.9%est.
Citrus bergamia peel oil expressed—High~0.55–1.3%est.
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.5–1.1%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.95%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Citrus grandis seed extract—High~0.1–0.45%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Nigella sativa seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acidMedium~4.3–6.5%est.
Rubus idaeus seed oilA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~1.7–2.5%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier functionMedium~1.2–1.8%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.45–1.05%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.45–1.1%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.65%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.15–0.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~22–34%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Nigella sativa seed oil~4.3–6.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid

More about Nigella sativa seed oil
Cucurbita pepo seed oil~4.5–6.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Cucurbita pepo seed oil
Citrus paradisi peel oil~3.4–5.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus paradisi peel oil
White
Not recognized
Citrus grandis peel extract~2.4–3.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic irritating plant extract that can cause photosensitivity in skin

More about Citrus grandis peel extract
Rubus leucodermis (b
Not recognized
Lac~2–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps form a film on the surface of the skin and disperse other ingredients (like colorants) in cosmetics. Lac is a resinous substance secreted by parasite insects living on trees

More about Lac
Rubus idaeus seed oil~1.7–2.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Rubus idaeus seed oil
Citrus paradisi peel extract~1.3–1.9%
Irritant · high
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil~1.2–1.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil
Vitis vinifera seed~0.9–1.4%
Formula
Citrus bergamia peel oil expressed~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · high
Rosa damascena extract~0.5–1.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Solanum lycopersicum seed oil~0.5–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and, due to the high linoleic acid content, can support the skin's barrier function

More about Solanum lycopersicum seed oil
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Retinol~0.4–0.9%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidationExfoliationMattifyingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.45–1.1%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Citrus limon peel oil~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
(l.) burm.f
Not recognized
Citrus limon peel extract~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract
Squalane~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Tocotrienols~0.3–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms

More about Tocotrienols
Tocopherol~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Form of
Not recognized
Tocopherol~0.15–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Citrus grandis seed extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Glycerin~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Parfum~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Glycerin~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cocos nucifera oil~0.15–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Ascorbic acid~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Ingredient list view

Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Nigella sativa seed oil, Cucurbita pepo seed oil, Citrus paradisi peel oil, Unknown, Citrus grandis peel extract, Unknown, Lac, Rubus idaeus seed oil, Citrus paradisi peel extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, Vitis vinifera seed, Citrus bergamia peel oil expressed, Rosa damascena extract, Solanum lycopersicum seed oil, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Retinol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Citrus limon peel oil, Unknown, Citrus limon peel extract, Squalane, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Unknown, Tocopherol, Citrus grandis seed extract, Glycerin, Parfum, Glycerin, Cocos nucifera oil, Ascorbic acid

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
MD Complete by Dr. Brian ZelicksonRetinol Vitamin C ConcentrateYOUR PRODUCTMedik8Retinol 10TR IntenseSkin AssistantRetinol Overnight SerumCosMedixSerum 16
Match—73%71%68%
Price—$53.54—$88.00
Shared key ingredients—4 of 153 of 155 of 15
Key difference—DimethiconeAgran OilRetinal
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol——— Contains drying alcohol
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

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MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson Retinol Vitamin C Concentrate
MD Complete by Dr. Brian ZelicksonRetinol Vitamin C Concentrate

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