MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson Citrus-C Refresh Retinol + Vitamin C Multitasking Treatment

Name: MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson - Citrus-C Refresh Retinol + Vitamin C Multitasking Treatment
Brand: MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Evens skin tone

Retinol, Niacinamide + 2 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Reduces the look of acne marks with Acetyl Glucosamine and Coriander Clarifies + calms the look of "hot spots" with Zinc, CoQ10, Curcuminoids and Amino Acids Provides clean, refreshing hydration with Hyaluronic Acid Nourishes skin with Fruit Seed Extracts and Amino Acids Rich in antioxidants and nutrients, including Vitamins A, B, C & E, this multitasking formula helps nourish clear skin tone, soften skin texture, and moisturize for a beautifully clean-feeling, matte finish.”

Source: MD complete

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: resveratrol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.4%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.3–5.2%

ResveratrolEffect: LowHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.2–0.35%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

Anti-aging

Retinol, Niacinamide + 7 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Citrus-C Refresh Retinol + Vitamin C Multitasking Treatment”

From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: resveratrol, vitis vinifera seed extract.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.4–0.6%

ResveratrolKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.2–0.35%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.2–0.35%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.15–0.3%

Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.25–0.45%

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Urea + 26 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Reduces the look of acne marks with Acetyl Glucosamine and Coriander Clarifies + calms the look of "hot spots" with Zinc, CoQ10, Curcuminoids and Amino Acids Provides clean, refreshing hydration with Hyaluronic Acid Nourishes skin with Fruit Seed Extracts and Amino Acids Rich in antioxidants and nutrients, including Vitamins A, B, C & E, this multitasking formula helps nourish clear skin tone, soften skin texture, and moisturize for a beautifully clean-feeling, matte finish.”

Source: MD complete

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, betaine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, chondrus crispus extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, urea

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.3–5.2%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.3%

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~3.1–3.8%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.1–1.3%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.3–0.6%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.3–0.6%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.25–0.45%

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Polyglutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin.~0.25–0.45%

Capryloyl glycineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.2–0.4%

Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.2–0.35%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.2–0.35%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.25%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.15–0.3%

XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.1–0.2%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%

Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.25–0.45%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%

PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%

AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Anti-blemish

Niacinamide, Retinol + 2 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Infused with pure Retinol and Vitamin C, this complexion corrector gently yet effectively diminishes post-acne dark marks and refines skin texture + tone.”

Source: MD complete

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Vitis vinifera seed extract, Retinol + 9 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (camellia oleifera leaf extract, resveratrol, retinol, vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.4–0.6%

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.4%

ResveratrolKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.2–0.35%

Camellia oleifera leaf extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics~0.15–0.3%

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~3.1–3.8%

Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing~0.2–0.35%

Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Exfoliation

Side benefit · Retinol, Urea + 2 more

Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

UreaKey activeEffect: MediumNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.3%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

4 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus grandis peel oil + 2 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Citrus grandis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.5–1.9%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Nordihydroguaiaretic acidUsed to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

Alternatives

The closest match we found

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Closest match72% match

$120.00

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Amyris balsamifera bark oil~6.6–8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Amyris balsamifera bark oil

Niacinamide~4.3–5.2%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-agingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~3.1–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil

Cucurbita pepo seed extract~2.2–2.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cucurbita pepo seed extract

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~1.8–2.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Pentylene glycol~1.5–1.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Dimethicone~1.4–1.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Glycerin~1.1–1.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Rubus occidentalis seed oil~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Rubus occidentalis seed oil

Tocopherol~0.55–0.8%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Carotenoids~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Carotenoids

Solanum lycopersicum seed extract~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Solanum lycopersicum seed extract

Vitis vinifera seed extract~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation

More about Vitis vinifera seed extract

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Dimethicone~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Hexylene glycol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol

Polydatin~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polydatin

Resveratrol~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

More about Resveratrol

Camellia oleifera leaf extract~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics

More about Camellia oleifera leaf extract

Butylene glycol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Betaine~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Capryloyl glycine~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Capryloyl glycine

Peg-40 stearate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 stearate

Panthenol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Allantoin~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Arginine~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Bisabolol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Carbomer~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing

More about Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract

Chondrus crispus extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Citrus grandis peel oil~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus grandis peel oil

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil

Dimethiconol~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Gardenia florida oil~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Gardenia florida oil

Glucose~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables

Hydrolyzed sclerotium gum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrolyzed sclerotium gum

Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Might help to reduce inflammation in skin, but solid research is lacking

More about Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid

Avenanthramides~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Avenanthramides

Avena sativa kernel extract~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract

Lactic acid~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Nigella sativa seed extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Nigella sativa seed extract

Nordihydroguaiaretic acid~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Nordihydroguaiaretic acid

Octyldodecanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol

Oleanolic acid~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin

More about Oleanolic acid

Peg-60 almond glycerides~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Peg-60 almond glycerides

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Polyglutamic acid~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin.

More about Polyglutamic acid

Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Potassium lactate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium lactate

Retinol~0.25–0.4%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Form of

Not recognized

Hyaluronic acid~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Urea~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Xylitylglucoside~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside

Ingredient list view

Water, Amyris balsamifera bark oil, Niacinamide, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Cucurbita pepo seed extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Pentylene glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Rubus occidentalis seed oil, Tocopherol, Carotenoids, Solanum lycopersicum seed extract, Vitis vinifera seed extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Pentylene glycol, Dimethicone, Hexylene glycol, Polydatin, Resveratrol, Camellia oleifera leaf extract, Butylene glycol, Betaine, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Capryloyl glycine, Peg-40 stearate, Panthenol, Allantoin, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Arginine, Ascorbyl palmitate, Bisabolol, Caprylyl glycol, Carbomer, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Chondrus crispus extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus grandis peel oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Dimethiconol, Disodium edta, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Gardenia florida oil, Glucose, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Hydrolyzed sclerotium gum, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Avenanthramides, Avena sativa kernel extract, Lactic acid, Nigella sativa seed extract, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Octyldodecanol, Oleanolic acid, Peg-60 almond glycerides, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic acid, Polysorbate 20, Potassium lactate, Retinol, Sodium benzoate, Sodium hyaluronate, Unknown, Hyaluronic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopherol, Urea, Xylitylglucoside

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	MD Complete by Dr. Brian ZelicksonCitrus-C Refresh Retinol + Vitamin C Multitasking TreatmentYOUR PRODUCT	PCA SKINIntensive Age Refining Treatment 0.5 Percent Pure Retinol Night	numbuzinNo. 3 Pore Reset Ampoule Shot	MedicubePDRN Pink Collagen Bubble Serum 95ml
Match	—	72%	72%	71%
Price	—	$120.00	$21.37	$23.53
Shared key ingredients	—	7 of 26	7 of 26	7 of 26
Key difference	—	Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3	Adenosine	Adenosine
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 44 studies and safety reviews.

1
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
4
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
5
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
8
Safety Assessment of Vitis Vinifera (Grape)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics cir-safety.org
9
The Topical Effect of Grape Seed Extract 2% Cream on Surgery Wound Healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Review of the Pharmacological Effects of Vitis vinifera (Grape) and its Bioactive Constituents: An Updatecore.ac.uk
11
Skin permeation and antioxidant efficacy of topically applied resveratrollink.springer.com
12
Chemoprevention of skin cancer by grape constituent resveratrol: relevance to human disease? fasebj.org
13
Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skineuropepmc.org
14
Resveratrol as a Multifunctional Topical Hypopigmenting Agentmdpi.com
15
Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation
16
Resveratrol: A Unique Antioxidant Offering a Multi-Mechanistic Approach for Treating Aging Skinresearchgate.net
17
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
18
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
19
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
20
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
21
Evidence for the efficacy and safety of topical herbal drugs in dermatology: Part I: Anti-inflammatory agentssciencedirect.com
22
Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
23
Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europesciencedirect.com
24
Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acidsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
29
Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, an inhibitor of lipoxygenase, also inhibits cytochrome P-450-mediated monooxygenase activity in rat epidermal and hepatic microsomes.dmd.aspetjournals.org
30
Antimutagenic and antitumorigenic activities of nordihydroguaiaretic acidsciencedirect.com
31
Estrogenic activity of an antioxidant, nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA)sciencedirect.com
32
Molecular mechanisms and clinical applications of nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA) and its derivatives: An updatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Effectiveness of the formulation that containing oleanolic acid 3% on inhibition of 5-α reductase activity on skin of patients with acnelongdom.org
34
The effect of ursolic and oleanolic acids on human skin fibroblast cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
γ‐Polyglutamic Acid Produced by Bacillus Subtilis (Natto): Structural Characteristics, Chemical Properties and Biological Functionalitiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
Natural and edible biopolymer poly‐γ‐glutamic acid: synthesis, production, and applicationsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
37
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
39
A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
40
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
42
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
43
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
44
Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

MD Complete by Dr. Brian ZelicksonCitrus-C Refresh Retinol + Vitamin C Multitasking Treatment

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