Name: M. Asam - Retinol Intense Youth Concentrate
Brand: M. Asam

What can the product work for?

Works for

Anti-aging
Anti-blemish
Evens skin tone
Exfoliation
Moisturizing
Anti-oxidation

Anti-aging

What does the product description say?

Retinol is one of the best-known anti-aging skin care ingredients, known to diminish the appearance of wrinkles while vit Alease is a special encapsulated retinol delivery system with carnauba wax that is a stable form of Vitamin A.

Source: HSN

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: retinyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

retinol 1.1% - 1.3%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

retinyl palmitate 0.8% - 1.2%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

tocopherol 0.5% - 0.75%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Insufficient!

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

Anti-blemish

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate

retinol 1.1% - 1.3%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

retinyl palmitate 0.8% - 1.2%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

Evens skin tone

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: retinyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

retinol 1.1% - 1.3%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

retinyl palmitate 0.8% - 1.2%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

Exfoliation

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

retinol 1.1% - 1.3%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

retinyl palmitate 0.8% - 1.2%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: LOW

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

microcrystalline cellulose 0.25% - 0.45%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: LOW

Moisturizing

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glucose.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: copernicia cerifera wax, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

copernicia cerifera wax 0.55% - 0.85%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

panthenol 0.55% - 0.85%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

simmondsia chinensis seed oil 2.3% - 2.8%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

Anti-oxidation

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

retinol 1.1% - 1.3%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

theobroma cacao seed butter 1.9% - 2.4%

Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High

Concentration: Effectiveness: LOW

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

tocopherol 0.5% - 0.75%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Insufficient!

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

Honesty check

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Can it cause trouble?

Overall product irritation risk
Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2

Potential irritants

retinol 1.1% - 1.3%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Anti-blemish, Evens skin tone, Mattifying, Anti-oxidation, Anti-aging, Exfoliation

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

retinyl palmitate 0.8% - 1.2%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Anti-aging, Anti-blemish, Evens skin tone, Exfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

Comodogenic ingredients

cetearyl alcohol 2.8% - 3.4%

Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium

Works for: Cleansing, Moisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

theobroma cacao seed butter 1.9% - 2.4%

Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High

Works for: Moisturizing, Anti-oxidation, Anti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

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Ingredients & concentrations

All ingredients

Key Actives

retinol 1.1% - 1.3%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Anti-blemish, Evens skin tone, Mattifying, Anti-oxidation, Anti-aging, Exfoliation

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

retinyl palmitate 0.8% - 1.2%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Anti-aging, Anti-blemish, Evens skin tone, Exfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

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