M-61 Vitablast C 20% Cream

M-61 Vitablast C 20% Cream

Efficacy91/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Evens skin tone
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“• Visibly brightens and illuminates dull skin. • Promotes a more even skin tone.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: kojic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Kojic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating~0.6–0.9%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~8.8–10.8%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.4–0.6%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.65–1%
Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“• Helps to protect against environmental stressors. • Helps improve skin’s elasticity. • Soothes and softens.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: tocotrienols.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~8.8–10.8%
TocotrienolsKey activeEffect: MediumA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms~1–1.3%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.65–1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.1–1.4%
Moisturizing
17 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“• Provides an ultra-hydrated, radiant glow.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium lactate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, cetearyl alcohol.

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.1–2.6%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.4–0.65%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.4–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–5.5%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating~0.45–0.7%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.8–3.4%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~1.8–2.1%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.3–2.9%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.5–0.8%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.65–1%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.5–0.75%
Lens esculenta fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract containing sugars that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to help reduce pore size but evidence is lacking~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.1–1.4%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.5–0.75%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (dimethylmethoxy chromanol, kojic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, tocotrienols) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Kojic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating~0.6–0.9%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~8.8–10.8%
TocotrienolsKey activeEffect: HighA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms~1–1.3%
Dimethylmethoxy chromanolKey activeEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.15–0.3%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.4–0.6%
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.1–1.4%
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound~0.5–0.8%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.5–0.75%
Lens esculenta fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract containing sugars that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to help reduce pore size but evidence is lacking~0.45–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Citrus paradisi peel oil, Citrus nobilis peel extract
Medium risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Kojic acidHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritatingHigh~0.6–0.9%est.
Citrus paradisi peel oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Citrus nobilis peel extract—High~0.55–0.8%est.
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oilA plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~8.8–10.8%est.
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compoundMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Lens esculenta fruit extractA plant extract containing sugars that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to help reduce pore size but evidence is lackingMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Oleth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.5–1.8%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.45–0.7%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~8.8–10.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Glycerin~4.5–5.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propanediol~3.4–4.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Vegetable oil~2.8–3.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vegetable oil
Glyceryl stearate~2.3–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Squalane~2.1–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Dicaprylyl ether~1.8–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Cetearyl alcohol~1.5–1.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Tocopherol~1.1–1.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Tocotrienols~1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms

More about Tocotrienols
Gallic acid~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Gallic acid
Niacinamide~0.65–1%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Kojic acid~0.6–0.9%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating

More about Kojic acid
Citrus paradisi peel oil~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus paradisi peel oil
Citrus nobilis peel extract~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Euphorbia cerifera wax~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Citrullus lanatus fruit extract~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound

More about Citrullus lanatus fruit extract
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Lens esculenta fruit extract~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract containing sugars that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to help reduce pore size but evidence is lacking

More about Lens esculenta fruit extract
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil~0.45–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating

More about Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Polymnia sonchifolia root extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Passiflora incarnata flower extract~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.45–0.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Sodium pca~0.4–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Sodium lactate~0.4–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Isohexadecane~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Polysorbate 60~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Stearic acid~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Oleth-20~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Oleth-20
Dimethylmethoxy chromanol~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Dimethylmethoxy chromanol
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Disodium edta~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ingredient list view

Water, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Vegetable oil, Glyceryl stearate, Squalane, Dicaprylyl ether, Cetearyl alcohol, Tocopherol, Tocotrienols, Gallic acid, Niacinamide, Kojic acid, Citrus paradisi peel oil, Citrus nobilis peel extract, Euphorbia cerifera wax, Citrullus lanatus fruit extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Lens esculenta fruit extract, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Polymnia sonchifolia root extract, Passiflora incarnata flower extract, Elaeis guineensis oil, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Sodium pca, Sodium lactate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Stearic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Oleth-20, Dimethylmethoxy chromanol, Sodium hydroxide, Disodium edta, Xanthan gum

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Bluemercury
$96.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
M-61Vitablast C 20% CreamYOUR PRODUCTLa Roche-PosayToleriane Ultra Night Cream for FaceShani Darden Skin CareHydration Peptide CreamMarudermHyaluronic Acid Moisturizer Face & Body Cream
Match—78%78%77%
Price$96.00$23.99−$72.01$60.00−$36.00$21.99−$74.01
Shared key ingredients—3 of 104 of 104 of 10
Key difference—Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterLactic AcidPanthenol
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  6. 6
M-61 Vitablast C 20% Cream
M-61Vitablast C 20% Cream

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