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M-61 ProSmooth Retinol Night Cream
M-61

M-61 ProSmooth Retinol Night Cream

Efficacy91/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“7% retinol night cream helps to accelerate skin’s natural cell turnover and visibly reduces the appearance of fine lines, while minimizing breakouts and improving overall tone and texture, for a smooth, hydrated and radiant complexion.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.45–0.7%
Glycine soja seed extractEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.~0.5–0.75%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~1.2–1.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
Evens skin tone
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Protects against environmental stressors and diminishes the look of dark spots.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycine soja seed extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.45–0.7%
Glycine soja seed extractEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.~0.5–0.75%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~1.2–1.4%
Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“ProSmooth Retinol Night Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium lactate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.

Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.3–0.55%
Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.35–0.65%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.15–0.3%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.1–0.2%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2–2.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.3–5.3%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~5.8–7.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–3%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~1.5–1.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.9–1.1%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~3.2–3.9%
Glycine soja seed extractKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.~0.5–0.75%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.65–1%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.7–2.1%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.45–0.65%
Lens esculenta fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract containing sugars that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to help reduce pore size but evidence is lacking~0.3–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.45–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.45–0.7%
Glycine soja seed extractEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.~0.5–0.75%
ErgothioneineUnder-dosedEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~1.2–1.4%
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound~0.35–0.65%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.45–0.65%
Lens esculenta fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract containing sugars that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to help reduce pore size but evidence is lacking~0.3–0.6%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.45–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Retinol
Medium risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Phenethyl alcoholA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~5.8–7.1%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.3–5.3%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.7–2.1%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~1.2–1.4%est.
Glycine soja seed extractAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compoundMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Lens esculenta fruit extractA plant extract containing sugars that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to help reduce pore size but evidence is lackingMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~5.8–7.1%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~1.5–1.8%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.9–1.1%est.
Edit
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycine soja oil~5.8–7.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.3–5.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~3.2–3.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Glycerin~2.4–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Squalane~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Pentylene glycol~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Glyceryl stearate se~1.5–1.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~1.2–1.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Mica~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Cetearyl alcohol~0.9–1.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Retinol~0.45–0.7%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidationExfoliationMattifying

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Ergothioneine~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine
Glycine soja seed extract~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.

More about Glycine soja seed extract
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Citrullus lanatus fruit extract~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound

More about Citrullus lanatus fruit extract
Lens esculenta fruit extract~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract containing sugars that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to help reduce pore size but evidence is lacking

More about Lens esculenta fruit extract
Oryza sativa bran oil~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Jojoba esters~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Potassium acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Potassium acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Chlorphenesin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Sodium lactate~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Phenethyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Phenethyl alcohol
Sodium pca~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycine soja oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glycerin, Squalane, Pentylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate se, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Mica, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Retinol, Ergothioneine, Glycine soja seed extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Citrullus lanatus fruit extract, Lens esculenta fruit extract, Oryza sativa bran oil, Tocopherol, Jojoba esters, Potassium acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Caprylyl glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Chlorphenesin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium lactate, Phenethyl alcohol, Sodium pca, Sodium benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

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Bluemercury
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
M-61ProSmooth Retinol Night CreamYOUR PRODUCTBiopelleEmepelle Night CreamPaula's choiceResist Intensive Repair CreamBeauty PieSuper Retinol Night Renewal Moisturiser
Match—77%76%75%
Price$90.00$195.00+$105.00$26.40−$63.60$24.46−$65.54
Shared key ingredients—3 of 126 of 124 of 12
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideFerulic Acid
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamagencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacysciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
M-61 ProSmooth Retinol Night Cream
M-61ProSmooth Retinol Night Cream
Buy at Bluemercury$96.00Amazon

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Buy at Bluemercury$96.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.