Lumene Nordic Detox [Sisu] Recover & Protect Facial Oil

Lumene Nordic Detox [Sisu] Recover & Protect Facial Oil

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
14 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Known for its highly concentrated formulations utilising wild Arctic plant extracts and Nordic ingredients, Lumene’s restorative Sisu Facial Oil blends antioxidant-rich Blackcurrant, Bilberry and Lingonberry Seed Oils with essential Omega Fatty Acids and Vitamin E. The nature-based ingredients work synergistically to help defend skin against external factors including smoke, pollution and UV rays, whilst improving skin’s natural protective barrier to restore moisture and leave your revitalised complexion exuding radiance.”
Source: Lookfantastic CA

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.3–9.4%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.75%
Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.95–1.45%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.35–0.85%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~3.3–5%
Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~1.6–2.4%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~25–37%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4.8–7.2%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~2.4–3.6%
Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.55–1.3%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.5–1.15%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.4–0.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.7%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–1.1%
Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Prevents first lines and defend beauty from urban ageing .”
Source: Feelunique

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~2.4–3.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.7%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.15–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Limonene + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~25–37%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.3–9.4%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~3.3–5%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~1.8–2.7%est.
Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~1.6–2.4%est.
Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.55–1.3%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.15–0.65%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~25–37%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.3–9.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Squalane~4.8–7.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Persea gratissima oil~3.3–5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~2.4–3.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil
Tocopheryl acetate~1.8–2.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ribes nigrum seed oil~1.6–2.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil
Vaccinium myrtillus seed oil~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Vaccinium vitis-idaea seed oil~1.1–1.6%
Formula
Linoleic acid~0.95–1.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Oleic acid~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid
Palmitic acid~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Peg-8~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Stearic acid~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Tocopherol~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Linolenic acid~0.35–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Ascorbic acid~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Citric acid~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Limonene~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Squalane, Persea gratissima oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Vaccinium myrtillus seed oil, Vaccinium vitis-idaea seed oil, Linoleic acid, Oleic acid, Palmitic acid, Peg-8, Stearic acid, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Linolenic acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Limonene, Linalool, Parfum

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Lookfantastic CA
≈ $34.37
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
LumeneNordic Detox [Sisu] Recover & Protect Facial OilYOUR PRODUCTREVOLUTION SKINCARENight Restore OilZelensPower D - Fortifying & RestoringPipetteBaby Oil
Match—62%59%58%
Price$36.88$10.50−$26.38$46.27+$9.39$4.16−$32.72
Shared key ingredients—6 of 97 of 94 of 9
Key difference—Glycine Soja OilBisabololCeramide Np
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Lumene - Nordic Detox [Sisu] Recover & Protect Facial Oil" can work well for skin moisturization. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Peg-8 in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (linoleic acid, linolenic acid, persea gratissima oil, ribes nigrum seed oil and caprylic/capric triglyceride) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.10% - 0.40%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • We love that there is also Linoleic Acid in this moisturizer (0.95% - 1.45%). Linoleic Acid is one of the skin's natural emollients. It supports the skin barrier and can even help reduce clogged pores.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails at around 27.91£ in the United Kingdom and for 48.90CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Lumene Nordic Detox [Sisu] Recover & Protect Facial Oil
LumeneNordic Detox [Sisu] Recover & Protect Facial Oil

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