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Lumene Nordic C [Valo] Overnight Bright Sleeping Cream
Lumene

Lumene Nordic C [Valo] Overnight Bright Sleeping Cream

Efficacy41/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients In 2 routines
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
26 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Tip To boost hydration, prep your skin with VALO Glow Refresh Hydrating Mist before moisturiser.”
Source: Feelunique

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: chondrus crispus extract, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3–3.7%
Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.35–0.65%
Lactococcus ferment lysateKey activeEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin~1.9–2.4%
Oleyl erucateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.15–0.3%
Chondrus crispusKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.25–0.45%
Hippophae rhamnoides oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.~0.35–0.65%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~4.1–5%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.1–5%
Octyldodecyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.7–2.1%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.4–0.6%
Olea europaea oil unsaponifiablesKey activeEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
Propylheptyl caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.7%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%
Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1.2–1.5%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.3–0.55%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1–1.3%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.75–1.1%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.5%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
Anti-aging
10 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Key Benefits Hydrate, Boost glow, Energise , Helps your skin restore its radiance during the night , Helps to brighten and vitalise tired and dull skin , Softer, brighter-looking complexion Key Ingredients Wild arctic cloudberry , Source of natural potent Vitamins A & E and essential omega fatty acids , Source of natural potent Vitamin C and ellagitannins , Skin brightening & energising properties Vitamin C , Stabilised bio-available Vitamin C for optimal penetration , Youthful radiance booster Pure arctic spring water , Naturally exceptionally pure , Skin p H affinity , Low in mineral salts for optimal softness.”
Source: Feelunique

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - lactococcus ferment lysate - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Lactococcus ferment lysateEffect: LowConsists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin~1.9–2.4%
Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.35–0.65%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~4.1–5%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.75–1.1%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.45%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.5%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.3–0.5%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.5%
Evens skin tone
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Key Benefits Hydrate, Boost glow, Energise , Helps your skin restore its radiance during the night , Helps to brighten and vitalise tired and dull skin , Softer, brighter-looking complexion Key Ingredients Wild arctic cloudberry , Source of natural potent Vitamins A & E and essential omega fatty acids , Source of natural potent Vitamin C and ellagitannins , Skin brightening & energising properties Vitamin C , Stabilised bio-available Vitamin C for optimal penetration , Youthful radiance booster Pure arctic spring water , Naturally exceptionally pure , Skin p H affinity , Low in mineral salts for optimal softness.”
Source: Feelunique

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.45%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.75–1.1%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.5%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.5%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.3–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rubus chamaemorus seed oilA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
Hippophae rhamnoides oilA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.High~0.35–0.65%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.65%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
6 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
6 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.35–0.65%est.
Chondrus crispusRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.15–0.3%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~4.1–5%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.4–2.9%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~4.1–5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~4.1–5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Glycerin~3–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl alcohol~2.4–2.9%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Lactococcus ferment lysate~1.9–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Lactococcus ferment lysate
Octyldodecyl myristate~1.7–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Octyldodecyl myristate
Oleyl erucate~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Oleyl erucate
Cetyl palmitate~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate
Glyceryl stearate~1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Niacinamide~0.75–1.1%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-agingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Peg-100 stearate~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Rubus chamaemorus seed oil~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating

More about Rubus chamaemorus seed oil
Rubus chamaemorus seed extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Rubus chamaemorus seed extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Hydrogenated olive oil~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrogenated olive oil
Cetearyl glucoside~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Propylheptyl caprylate~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Propylheptyl caprylate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Olea europaea fruit oil~0.4–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Propanediol~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Hippophae rhamnoides oil~0.35–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.

More about Hippophae rhamnoides oil
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Allantoin~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces rednessReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables
Lecithin~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Peg-8~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Retinyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Algae extract~0.35–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Lactic acid~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Sodium chloride~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Glucose~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Ascorbic acid~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Chondrus crispus~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus
Carrageenan~0.25–0.45%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Chondrus crispus extract~0.15–0.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract
Limonene~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Parfum~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Lactococcus ferment lysate, Octyldodecyl myristate, Oleyl erucate, Cetyl palmitate, Glyceryl stearate, Niacinamide, Peg-100 stearate, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Rubus chamaemorus seed extract, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated olive oil, Cetearyl glucoside, Propylheptyl caprylate, Tocopheryl acetate, Olea europaea fruit oil, Propanediol, Hippophae rhamnoides oil, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Peg-8, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Retinyl palmitate, Algae extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Lactic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium benzoate, Sodium chloride, Ascorbyl palmitate, Potassium sorbate, Glucose, Ascorbic acid, Chondrus crispus, Carrageenan, Citric acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Chondrus crispus extract, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
LumeneNordic C [Valo] Overnight Bright Sleeping CreamYOUR PRODUCTJanuary LabsRetexturizing Night CreamMatte BeautyHydroquinone Cream USP, 4% Skin Bleaching CreamBiologique RechercheLotion P50 Original "1970"
Match—82%81%78%
Price$22.50$86.00+$63.50—$155.00+$132.50
Shared key ingredients—3 of 152 of 153 of 15
Key difference—Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5HydroquinoneSalicylic Acid
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oilsmdpi.com
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
Lumene Nordic C [Valo] Overnight Bright Sleeping Cream
LumeneNordic C [Valo] Overnight Bright Sleeping Cream
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