Lancer Skincare

Retexturizing Treatment Cream

Name: Lancer Skincare - Retexturizing Treatment Cream
Brand: Lancer Skincare

Efficacy 87/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Exfoliation

GLYCOLIC ACID at ~5.6–6.8% + 1 more curated active

Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

RETINYL PALMITATERole: Under-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.35%

GLYCOLIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~5.6–6.8%

C12-15 alkyl benzoateRole: Key activeEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~4.2–5.1%

CyclopentasiloxaneRole: Key activeA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.2–3.9%

Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–2.5%

DimethiconeRole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.1–1.3%

SqualaneRole: Key activeAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.65–1%

Sodium hyaluronateRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycansRole: Key activeLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

UbiquinoneRole: Key activeCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%

PhospholipidsRole: Key activeEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.25–0.45%

Moisturizing

8 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, squalane.

DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.1–1.3%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–2.5%

HYDROLYZED GLYCOSAMINOGLYCANSRole: Key activeLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

SQUALANERole: Key activeAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.65–1%

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.65%

UBIQUINONERole: Key activeCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%

CYCLOPENTASILOXANERole: Key activeA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.2–3.9%

Anti-oxidation

UBIQUINONE at ~0.25–0.5% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

UBIQUINONERole: Key activeCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%

Glycolic acidRole: Key activeAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~5.6–6.8%

CyclopentasiloxaneRole: Key activeA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.2–3.9%

Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–2.5%

SqualaneRole: Key activeAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.65–1%

Sodium hyaluronateRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycansRole: Key activeLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

PhospholipidsRole: Key activeEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.25–0.45%

Anti-aging

GLYCOLIC ACID at ~5.6–6.8% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

UBIQUINONERole: Key activeCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%

Irritancy

11 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~5.6–6.8%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherLow~1.3–1.6%est.

Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureLow~0.7–1.1%est.

Ammonium hydroxideHelps adjust the product pHLow~0.55–0.8%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.45–0.7%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Low~0.2–0.35%est.

Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.15–0.25%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

Cetearyl alcohol ~2.4–2.9% — rinse-off or low %

Low risk

We flag 1 ingredient with a low-to-moderate comedogenic rating — at these concentrations, or in rinse-off use, they're unlikely to clog pores for most skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~2.4–2.9%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels