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Laboratoire ACM Sébionex.K Keratoregulating Cream
Laboratoire ACM

Laboratoire ACM Sébionex.K Keratoregulating Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Exfoliation
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Its exfoliating action due to the combination of 3 forms of AHA (15%) is progressive, for a better cutaneous tolerance.”
Source: Cocoon Center

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~1.6–2%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.25–0.5%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.6%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%
Moisturizing
10 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Sébionex.K Keratoregulating Cream”
From product name

Does not contain the most effective ingredients for moisturization. The emollients (cyclopentasiloxane, c13-14 isoparaffin) can help soften the upper layer of the skin. Keep in mind though that this product lacks humectants that attract water. You might want to use a separate product with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin in addition (use before this product for the best results).

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.95–1.2%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.25–0.45%
Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.25–0.5%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.75–1.15%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.2–0.35%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.25–0.5%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.6%
Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.65–1%
CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.5–0.7%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~1.6–2%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.6%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.25–0.5%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~1.6–2%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.25–0.5%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.6%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~1.6–2%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2–2.4%est.
Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.1–1.4%est.
Ammonium hydroxideHelps adjust the product pHMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.3–0.6%est.
Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.25%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Ammonium glycolate~7.4–9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ammonium glycolate
Nylon-12~4.4–5.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Nylon-12
C12-13 alkyl lactate~3.2–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about C12-13 alkyl lactate
Propanediol~2.3–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Steareth-21~2–2.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Glycolic acid~1.6–2%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Ammonium lactate~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ammonium lactate
Steareth-2~1.1–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-2
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.95–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Isohexadecane~0.75–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Stearic acid~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Ammonium hydroxide~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps adjust the product pH

More about Ammonium hydroxide
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Peg-150/decyl alcohol/smdi copolymer~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Peg-150/decyl alcohol/smdi copolymer
Bisabolol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Lactic acid~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Zinc gluconate~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationExfoliationEvens skin tone

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate
Gluconolactone~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Calcium gluconate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate
Polyacrylamide~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Propylene glycol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Chlorphenesin~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Laureth-7~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Ammonium glycolate, Nylon-12, C12-13 alkyl lactate, Propanediol, Steareth-21, Glycolic acid, Ammonium lactate, Steareth-2, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isohexadecane, Stearic acid, Ammonium hydroxide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Peg-150/decyl alcohol/smdi copolymer, Bisabolol, Lactic acid, Zinc gluconate, Gluconolactone, Calcium gluconate, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, Propylene glycol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium benzoate, Laureth-7, Xanthan gum, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Laboratoire ACMSébionex.K Keratoregulating CreamYOUR PRODUCTBe MinimalistAHA PHA BHA 32%BlissPro Liquid ExfoliantRNWDER. CLEAR AHA BHA PHA Peeling Mask
Match—56%53%50%
Price$13.88$10.59−$3.29$23.80+$9.92$17.60+$3.72
Shared key ingredients—3 of 63 of 63 of 6
Key difference—Salicylic AcidSalicylic AcidSalicylic Acid
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol——— Contains drying alcohol
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 26 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
  4. 4
    5: Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Steareth-2,-4,-6,-7,-10,-11,-13,-15, and-20journals.sagepub.com
  5. 5
    α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
  6. 6
    Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Laboratoire ACM Sébionex.K Keratoregulating Cream
Laboratoire ACMSébionex.K Keratoregulating Cream
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