PRODUCT REVIEW
LA SUITE Skincare 20% Active Complex Vitamin C Serum
Can it cause trouble?
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Works for
Does not work for
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
20% Vitamin C Complex combined with botanical skin brighteners and antioxidants helps even out skin tone, support healthy collagen, and protect against blue light damage.
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
8.2% -
12.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
ascorbyl glucoside
3.4% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
phyllanthus emblica fruit extract
1.7% -
2.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrations
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
20% Vitamin C Complex combined with botanical skin brighteners and antioxidants helps even out skin tone, support healthy collagen, and protect against blue light damage.
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
8.2% -
12.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
alpha-arbutin
2.1% -
3.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Might help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin
ascorbyl glucoside
3.4% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Show more
Anti-oxidation
superoxide dismutase
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
ubiquinone
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
8.2% -
12.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Show more
Anti-blemish
retinyl palmitate
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Exfoliation
retinyl palmitate
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Moisturizing
ubiquinone
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
superoxide dismutase
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
phospholipids
0.4% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
50/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
ascorbic acid
2.6% -
3.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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| WIMJ similarity score |
78%
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78%
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70%
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70%
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69%
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| Common:
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinyl palmitate
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
8.2% -
12.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Show more
Potential irritants
ascorbic acid
2.6% -
3.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
methyl trimethicone
23% -
35%
Irritation risk:
A type of silicone that helps create a silky product finish and dissolve other ingredients
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
8.2% -
12.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
cyclopentasiloxane
5.3% -
7.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
Show more
Ingredient list view
Methyl trimethicone, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Ascorbyl glucoside, Ascorbic acid, Alpha-arbutin, Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract, Ascorbic acid/orange/citrus limon/citrus aurantifolia polypeptides, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract, Ascorbyl palmitate, Water, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Unknown, Phospholipids, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Superoxide dismutase, Ubiquinone, Phenoxyethanol
Sources
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
- Emblica
- Amla (Emblica officinalis Gaertn.) extract promotes procollagen production and inhibits matrix metalloproteinase-1 in human skin fibroblasts
- Emblica Cascading Antioxidant: A Novel Natural Skin Care Ingredient
- A novel efficient and safe treatment for atopic dermatitis: Topical superoxide dismutase (SOD).
- Novel topical agent containing superoxide dismutase 100 000 IU and 4% of plant extracts as a mono-therapy for atopic dermatitis
- Copper/Zinc Superoxide Dismutase in Human Skin: Current Knowledge
- Photoprotective Effect of Topically Applied Superoxide Dismutase on Sunburn Reaction in Comparison with Sunscreen
- The role of superoxide dismutase (SOD) in skin disorders
- Topical formulations with superoxide dismutase: Influence of formulation composition on physical stability and enzymatic activity