PRODUCT REVIEW
LA CABINE Dark Spots Serum
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Highly concentrated ampoules to combat blemishes and brighten the complexion. What makes them special?
potassium azeloyl diglycinate
2.3% -
2.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
niacinamide
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Dark Spots Serum
potassium azeloyl diglycinate
2.3% -
2.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
niacinamide
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Anti-aging
niacinamide
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
tocopherol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Moisturizing
glycerin
3.8% -
4.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
niacinamide
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
squalene
0.75% -
1.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
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Anti-oxidation
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
squalene
0.75% -
1.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
lactobacillus ferment
1.6% -
2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
propylene glycol
4.6% -
5.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
squalene
0.75% -
1.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Moisturizing,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
avena sativa kernel extract
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Reduces irritation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness,
Anti-oxidation
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
Show more
Potential irritants
propylene glycol
4.6% -
5.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
squalene
0.75% -
1.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
All ingredients
propylene glycol
4.6% -
5.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
glycerin
3.8% -
4.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Propylene glycol, Glycerin, Mica, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Lactobacillus ferment, Caprylyl glycol, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Squalene, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium phytate, Lecithin, Avena sativa kernel extract, Polyacrylate-13, Xanthan gum, Tocopherol, Polyisobutene, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Beta-sitosterol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan isostearate, Lysolecithin, Phytic acid, Morus alba fruit extract, Titanium dioxide, Triethanolamine, Citric acid, Parfum, Triethylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Bisabolol, Phenethyl alcohol, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Eugenol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal
Sources
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosacea
- A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfections
- Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibrium
- Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-aging
- Antioxidant Ability and Stability Studies of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Cosmetic Tyrosinase Inhibitor
- The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoaging
- Comparison of clinical and histological effects between lactobacillus-fermented Chamaecyparis obtusa and tea tree oil for the treatment of acne: an eight-week double-blind randomized controlled split-face study
- Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applications
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Squalene and its potential clinical uses
- Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology
- Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- The Ameliorative Effect of β-sitosterol on DNCB-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Mice
- Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids
- Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Phenethyl Alcohol