Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
"Jan Marini - Transformation Face Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (glycerin, saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, sodium hyaluronate, sodium pca and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Glycine soja oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, squalane and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.25% - 0.45%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
- This moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.30% - 0.55%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (sh-polypeptide-22 0.30% - 0.60% and myristoyl pentapeptide-8 0.45% - 0.65%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 115.00$ up to 120.00$ in the United States, for 154.00A$ in Australia and from 103.50£ up to 111.99£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Works for
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Transformation Face Cream
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, saccharomyces cerevisiae extract.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: myristoyl pentapeptide-8, sh-polypeptide-22
A moisturizing ingredient that works as a humectant to attract water to the upper layer of the skin.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
Used to create a nice product consistency
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
TGF beta 1 combined with multiple anti-aging peptides helps to boost collagen and elastin for significant skin rejuvenation benefits while patented thymosin beta 4 helps the skin recover from daily damage and wear.
Source: Bluemercury
This product contains myristoyl pentapeptide-8, sh-polypeptide-22. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (tocopheryl linoleate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 87/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A moisturizing ingredient that works as a humectant to attract water to the upper layer of the skin.
A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient
Potential irritants
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A fragrance. Can trigger allergic reactions and be irritating
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
A preservative. Works by releasing formaldehyde. Can be irritating
A preservative. Is more irritating than many other preservatives available
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
A moisturizing ingredient that works as a humectant to attract water to the upper layer of the skin.
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Helps oil and water mix together and create a thicker product consistency
A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient
Comedogenic ingredients
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
All ingredients
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A moisturizing ingredient that works as a humectant to attract water to the upper layer of the skin.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Helps oil and water mix together and create a thicker product consistency
A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A fragrance. Can trigger allergic reactions and be irritating
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
A preservative. Works by releasing formaldehyde. Can be irritating
A preservative. Is more irritating than many other preservatives available
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Hexyl laurate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butylene glycol, Polysorbate 60, Stearyl alcohol, Palmitic acid, Sorbitan stearate, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Nylon-12, Sodium hyaluronate, Myristoyl pentapeptide-8, Myristoyl pentapeptide-11, Sh-polypeptide-22, Unknown, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopheryl linoleate, Squalane, Dimethicone, Sodium pca, C12-20 acid peg-8 ester, Cetyl alcohol, Peg-8, Hydrolyzed elastin, Hydrogenated lecithin, Glycine soja oil, Sodium oleate, Tocopheryl linoleate, Parfum, Amyl cinnamal, Benzyl salicylate, Butylphenyl methylpropional, Eugenol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Disodium edta, Phenoxyethanol, Diazolidinyl urea, Imidazolidinyl urea
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- An Epidemic Outbreak of Papular and Follicular Contact Dermatitis to Tocopheryl Linoleate in Cosmetics. Swiss Contact Dermatitis Research Group
- Safety Assessment of Tocopherols and Tocotrienols as Used in Cosmetics
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts