What's In My Jar
iS Clinical Youth Intensive Crème
iS Clinical

iS Clinical Youth Intensive Crème

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Urea, Tripeptide-1 + 21 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Delivers 24-hour hydration & treatment complex in one”
Source: Face the future

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, tripeptide-1, urea

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~1.9–2.4%
Tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.2–1.5%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~4.6–5.6%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.4–5.3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.5–3.1%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~1.7–2%
Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.9–1.15%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.5–0.8%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.5–0.75%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.4–0.6%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: MediumIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.4–0.6%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.3–0.55%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Pantothenic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.3–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.35%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.5%
Evens skin tone
Retinyl palmitate, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“Vitamin C: provides skin with potent photo-protection, helps alleviate irritated skin and brightens your complexion”
Source: Dermstore

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.5%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.5%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.5–0.75%
Anti-aging
Tripeptide-1, Asiaticoside + 5 more
May help
What the product description says
“Powerful peptides and growth factors work together with Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C and a mild concentration of Retinyl Palmitate to encourage skin cell turnover, improve uneven skin texture and visibly reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Face the future

This product contains asiaticoside, retinyl palmitate, tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.2–1.5%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.5%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~4.6–5.6%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.4–0.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.5%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.5–0.75%
Exfoliation
Urea, Salix alba bark extract + 1 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Gently exfoliates for increased vitality”
Source: Bluemercury

This product might help exfoliate the skin with urea, retinyl palmitate, but These ingredients is not the most effective.

UreaEffect: MediumNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~1.9–2.4%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.55–0.8%
Retinyl palmitateEffect: LowThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Superoxide dismutase, Asiaticoside + 6 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chloride, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.4–0.6%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chlorideKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and protect from harmful effects of sun exposure, even though more studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness in topical applications~0.25–0.5%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.55–0.8%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.4–0.6%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.5%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.5–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Retinyl palmitate + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.4–5.3%est.
Guanidine hclUsed to preserve product formulationsMedium~1.4–1.8%est.
Glyceryl dilaurateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.95%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chlorideA potent anti-oxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and protect from harmful effects of sun exposure, even though more studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness in topical applicationsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
PvpHelps evenly disperse other ingredients in a formulation and create an even layer on the surface of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.3–0.6%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.35–0.6%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Extreme Dry Skin Relief Face Cream 5% Urea
Sebamed Extreme Dry Skin Relief Face Cream 5% Urea
CheaperHigher efficacy · 87/10051% match
$7.99
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Hyaluronic acid~4.6–5.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.4–5.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit/leaf extract~3.2–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit/leaf extract
Glycerin~2.5–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Urea~1.9–2.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Glucose~1.7–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Guanidine hcl~1.4–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to preserve product formulations

More about Guanidine hcl
Tripeptide-1~1.2–1.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tripeptide-1
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.9–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Salix alba bark extract~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract
Glyceryl dilaurate~0.6–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glyceryl dilaurate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Dimethicone~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Cetyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness

More about Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline
Superoxide dismutase~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase
Ormenis multicaulis oil~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ormenis multicaulis oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Phospholipids~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Retinyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Pantothenic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin

More about Pantothenic acid
Acer saccharum extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Asiaticoside~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Asiatic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Madecassic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Peg-8/smdi copolymer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Peg-8/smdi copolymer
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Soy isoflavones~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Soy isoflavones
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chloride~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A potent anti-oxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and protect from harmful effects of sun exposure, even though more studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness in topical applications

More about Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chloride
Hexylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Silica dimethyl silylate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Silica dimethyl silylate
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Cetearyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Ceteareth-20~0.35–0.6%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Glyceryl stearate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Carbomer~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Pvp~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps evenly disperse other ingredients in a formulation and create an even layer on the surface of the skin

More about Pvp
Panthenol~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Triethanolamine~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Disodium edta~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Methylglucoside phosphate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Methylglucoside phosphate
Copper lysinate/prolinate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Copper lysinate/prolinate
1,2-hexanediol~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Ingredient list view

Water, Hyaluronic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit/leaf extract, Glycerin, Urea, Glucose, Guanidine hcl, Tripeptide-1, Saccharum officinarum extract, Salix alba bark extract, Glyceryl dilaurate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Dimethicone, Cetyl alcohol, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Superoxide dismutase, Ormenis multicaulis oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Phospholipids, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Pantothenic acid, Acer saccharum extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid, Ascorbyl palmitate, Peg-8/smdi copolymer, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Soy isoflavones, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chloride, Hexylene glycol, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Silica dimethyl silylate, Butylene glycol, Cetearyl alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Carbomer, Xanthan gum, Pvp, Panthenol, Triethanolamine, Disodium edta, Caprylyl glycol, Methylglucoside phosphate, Copper lysinate/prolinate, 1,2-hexanediol

Compare prices

Retailers ranked by price — lowest first.

Bluemercury
$256.00
Buy
Amazon USPrice as of 11/10 00:09 GMT
$256.00
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Dermstore1.7 oz
$256.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
iS ClinicalYouth Intensive CrèmeYOUR PRODUCTSebamedExtreme Dry Skin Relief Face Cream 5% UreaMEDI-PEELCENCICA ALLA CREAMVT CosmeticsCica Collagen Cream
Match—51%49%49%
Price$256.00$7.99−$248.01—$16.43−$239.57
Shared key ingredients—7 of 178 of 178 of 17
Key difference—BisabololNiacinamideCopper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol—— Contains drying alcohol —
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  • matches yours
  • differs
  • cheaper

More alternatives: Mesoestetic couperend creamskintific 5% B5 Ceramide Barrier Relief Moisturizer

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "iS Clinical - Youth Intensive Crème" works well for moisturizing the skin. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Urea, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, glucose and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Tripeptide-1, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.25% - 0.45%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (tripeptide-1 1.20% - 1.50%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • This formulation also includes actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (its other name is Gotu Kola): madecassic acid 0.25% - 0.50%, asiatic acid 0.25% - 0.50% and asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.45% The Centella Asiatica actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 235.00$ up to 385.00$ in the United States, for 1332.69A$ in Australia and from 153.00£ up to 310.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 34 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extractonlinelibrary.wiley.com
iS Clinical Youth Intensive Crème
iS ClinicalYouth Intensive Crème
Buy at Bluemercury$256.00$256.00as of 11/10 00:09 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Bluemercury$256.00$256.00as of 11/10 00:09 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.