Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
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Product Summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Institut Esthederm - Tan Enhancing Lotion" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (algae extract, aspartic acid, carnosine, dextran and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (lanolin, paraffinum liquidum, algae extract, helianthus annuus seed oil and glyceryl stearate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-1 0.30% - 0.50%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 42.00£ up to 44.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin
Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin. It is claimed to be a "DNA repair enzyme"
A stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Tan Enhancing Lotion
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract, aspartic acid.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, algae extract.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-1, lanolin, paraffinum liquidum
Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin. It is claimed to be a "DNA repair enzyme"
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Sebum of wool-bearing animals (most commonly sheep). Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce the skin water loss. In rare cases could be an allergen. Not suitable for vegans
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Anti-aging
This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-1, aspartic acid, carnosine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Evens skin tone
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid.
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Paraffinum liquidum, Glycerin, Lanolin, Triethanolamine, Glyceryl stearate, Palmitic acid, Peg-100 stearate, Stearic acid, Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Trilinolein, Chlorphenesin, Acetyl tyrosine, Aspartic acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Parfum, Tocopheryl acetate, Oleoyl tyrosine, Propylene glycol, Limonene, Butylene glycol, Trilinolenin, Triolein, Citrus paradisi fruit extract, Oleic acid, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium sorbate, Tripalmitin, Medicago sativa extract, Tristearin, Alcohol, Hexyl cinnamal, Ascorbyl palmitate, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Linalool, Carnosine, Copper gluconate, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Algae extract, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Benzyl benzoate, Citral, Morus alba leaf extract, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Acetyl hexapeptide-1, Dextran, Lecithin, Micrococcus lysate, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts
- A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- The lanolin paradox revisited Matiz, Catalina et al. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Volume 64, Issue 1, 197
- Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof
- In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cells
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical application
- Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatment
- 18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Cultures