Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
- Anti-aging
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Product Summary
Based on the ingredients included, "Institut Esthederm - Royal Jelly Vital Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Algae extract, betaine, carnosine and royal jelly extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Paraffinum liquidum, algae extract, isopropyl myristate, beeswax and cera alba in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lecithin, titanium dioxide and niacinamideIrritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 85.00CA$ in Canada, for 68.90$ in the United States and for 54.53£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Works for
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
A stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Strengthen tired, dull skin Boosts skin’s vital function Hydrates skin Suitable for all skin types Directions.
Source: Face the future
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract, betaine.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, cera alba.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: paraffinum liquidum
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
A compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
An emollient that helps soften the skin
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Anti-aging
This product contains carnosine, creatine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Institut Esthederm Royal Jelly Vital Cream | Current | $55.53 | |
POND'S Correcting Cream Clarant B3 Dark Spot Normal to Dry Skin | 85% | $9.49 | |
Origins GinZing Ultra-Hydrating Energy-Boosting Cream | 83% | $28.10 | |
 E45 Rich 24hr Cream | 83% | $5.99 | |
 Heimish Marine Care Deep Moisture Nourishing Melting Cream | 80% | $15.28 | |
 Boots Skin Clear Lotion with niacinamide | 79% | $4.00 |
Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Paraffinum liquidum, Propylene glycol, Betaine, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Cetyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Palmitic acid, Beeswax, Cera alba, Sorbitan sesquioleate, Triethanolamine, Stearyl heptanoate, Stearyl caprylate, Parfum, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Tocopheryl acetate, Isopropyl myristate, Phenoxyethanol, Royal jelly extract, Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, Creatine, Algae extract, Potassium sorbate, Butylphenyl methylpropional, Linalool, Niacinamide, Superoxide dismutase, Titanium dioxide, Carnosine, Geraniol, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Morus alba leaf extract, Alcohol, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Polysorbate 80, Aluminum hydroxide, Lecithin, Soy isoflavones, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts
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- Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects
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- The Creatine Kinase System in Human Skin: Protective Effects of Creatine Against Oxidative and UV Damage In Vitro and In Vivo
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- A novel efficient and safe treatment for atopic dermatitis: Topical superoxide dismutase (SOD).
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