Institut Esthederm Royal Jelly Vital Cream

Institut Esthederm Royal Jelly Vital Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Strengthen tired, dull skin Boosts skin’s vital function Hydrates skin Suitable for all skin types Directions.”
Source: Face the future

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, betaine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, cera alba.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: paraffinum liquidum

Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~1–1.2%
BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~1.1–1.3%
Paraffinum liquidumHero· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~5.6–6.8%
Isopropyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic~0.45–0.65%
Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.4–0.6%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.1–0.15%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~3–3.7%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.3–0.55%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2–2.4%
Royal jelly extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products~0.3–0.55%
Stearyl heptanoate· EmollientEffect: Low~0.6–0.85%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.7–2.1%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~1.2–1.5%
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~2.4–2.9%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.5–1.8%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.3–0.55%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.1–0.15%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.3–0.55%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinateEffect: LowA stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation~0.3–0.55%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.4–0.6%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains carnosine, creatine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.1–0.15%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.4–0.6%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Sorbitan sesquioleate, Parfum + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~3.9–4.8%est.
Sorbitan sesquioleateUsed to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.65–0.95%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Butylphenyl methylpropionalA fragrance. Can trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~1–1.2%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymerUsed to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen), evenly disperse pigements and create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.
Royal jelly extractA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee productsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinateA stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Stearyl heptanoate—3/5~0.6–0.85%est.
Isopropyl myristateAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.45–0.65%est.
Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.4–0.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Paraffinum liquidum~5.6–6.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum
Propylene glycol~3.9–4.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Betaine~3–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Cetyl alcohol~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Stearic acid~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Glyceryl stearate~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Palmitic acid~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Beeswax~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Cera alba~1–1.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Sorbitan sesquioleate~0.65–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Used to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Sorbitan sesquioleate
Triethanolamine~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Stearyl heptanoate~0.6–0.85%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Stearyl heptanoate
Stearyl caprylate~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Parfum~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen), evenly disperse pigements and create a nice product consistency

More about Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer
Disodium edta~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Isopropyl myristate~0.45–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic

More about Isopropyl myristate
Phenoxyethanol~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Royal jelly extract~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products

More about Royal jelly extract
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation

More about Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate
Creatine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
Algae extract~0.4–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract
Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Butylphenyl methylpropional~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Butylphenyl methylpropional
Linalool~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Niacinamide~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Superoxide dismutase~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase
Titanium dioxide~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Carnosine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Geraniol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Morus alba leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Alcohol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Polysorbate 80~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Aluminum hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Is used to add opaque (non-transparent) appearance to formulations. Can be used to coat other ingredients for even dispersion. This is a different ingredient compared to the ones used in antipersperants (aluminium chloride and aluminium chlorohydrate)

More about Aluminum hydroxide
Lecithin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Soy isoflavones~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Water~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Carnosine~0.1–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Mineral salts~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicked product formulations. Might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin

More about Mineral salts
Ingredient list view

Water, Paraffinum liquidum, Propylene glycol, Betaine, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Cetyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Palmitic acid, Beeswax, Cera alba, Sorbitan sesquioleate, Triethanolamine, Stearyl heptanoate, Stearyl caprylate, Parfum, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Tocopheryl acetate, Isopropyl myristate, Phenoxyethanol, Royal jelly extract, Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, Creatine, Algae extract, Potassium sorbate, Butylphenyl methylpropional, Linalool, Niacinamide, Superoxide dismutase, Titanium dioxide, Carnosine, Geraniol, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Morus alba leaf extract, Alcohol, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Polysorbate 80, Aluminum hydroxide, Lecithin, Soy isoflavones, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Institut EsthedermRoyal Jelly Vital CreamYOUR PRODUCTPOND'SCorrecting Cream Clarant B3 Dark Spot Normal to Dry SkinOriginsGinZing Ultra-Hydrating Energy-Boosting CreamE45Rich 24hr Cream
Match—85%83%83%
Price$74.03$9.49−$64.54$36.00−$38.03$7.92−$66.11
Shared key ingredients—3 of 113 of 112 of 11
Key difference—OctinoxateSalicylic AcidDimethicone
Irritancy High Medium High Low
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Institut Esthederm - Royal Jelly Vital Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Algae extract, betaine, carnosine and royal jelly extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Paraffinum liquidum, algae extract, isopropyl myristate, beeswax and cera alba in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lecithin, titanium dioxide and niacinamide

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 85.00CA$ in Canada, for 68.90$ in the United States and for 54.53£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
Institut Esthederm Royal Jelly Vital Cream
Institut EsthedermRoyal Jelly Vital Cream

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