Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol Face Cream
Works for
2 of 3 advertised claims delivered
Moisturizing11 ingredients credited for this claimGood evidence
“Intensive Retinol Face Cream”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
carnosine, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.
Anti-aging4 ingredients credited for this claimModerate evidence
“Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol face cream, for mature skin with deep wrinkles and/or uneven skin surface.”
This product contains carnosine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
Evens skin tone1 ingredient credited for this claimWeak evidence
“Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol face cream, for mature skin with deep wrinkles and/or uneven skin surface.”
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
Anti-oxidationNot advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claimStrong evidence
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy3 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Retinyl palmitate + 1 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale2 flagged
User reviews
Be the first — your take helps the next person decide.
Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~45–55%
Glycerin~4.3–5.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinCetearyl isononanoate~4.2–5.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.
More about Cetearyl isononanoateCyclopentasiloxane~3.1–3.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
More about CyclopentasiloxaneDipropylene glycol caprylate~2.3–2.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Alcohol denat.~1.9–2.3%
- Irritation risk
- High
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
More about Alcohol denat.Dipropylene glycol~1.5–1.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying
More about Dipropylene glycolGlycol palmitate~1.4–1.8%
Cetearyl alcohol~1.3–1.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
More about Cetearyl alcoholGlyceryl stearate~1–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glyceryl stearatePeg-100 stearate~0.75–1.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
More about Peg-100 stearateCetyl palmitate~0.6–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability
More about Cetyl palmitatePtfe~0.55–0.8%
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.45–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish
More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerAmmonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.4–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymerCetearyl glucoside~0.45–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture
More about Cetearyl glucosideSqualane~0.45–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
More about SqualanePhenoxyethanol~0.35–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolChlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%
C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to create a nice silky product texture
More about C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymerRetinyl palmitate~0.25–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- High
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
More about Retinyl palmitatePolysorbate 60~0.25–0.45%
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
More about Helianthus annuus seed oilPropylene glycol~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- High
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
More about Propylene glycolParfum~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumPeg/ppg-18/18 dimethicone~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that mixes with water creating nice light-weight product texture
More about Peg/ppg-18/18 dimethiconePentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to increase stability of product formulations
More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamateSorbitan isostearate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix together
More about Sorbitan isostearateCarnosine~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
More about CarnosineSodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolLaminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
More about Laminaria digitata extractWater~0.15–0.25%
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.1–0.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Carnosine~0.1–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
More about CarnosineMineral salts~0.05–0.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to thicked product formulations. Might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin
More about Mineral saltsIngredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl isononanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dipropylene glycol caprylate, Unknown, Alcohol denat., Dipropylene glycol, Glycol palmitate, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Cetyl palmitate, Ptfe, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Cetearyl glucoside, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Disodium edta, C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Retinyl palmitate, Polysorbate 60, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Propylene glycol, Parfum, Peg/ppg-18/18 dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sorbitan isostearate, Carnosine, Sodium hydroxide, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Tocopherol, Laminaria digitata extract, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts
Compare prices
Retailers ranked by price — lowest first.
Affiliate links · prices updated regularly · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2Safety Assessment of Fluoropolymers as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
- 3
- 4
- 5Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
- 6
Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.