Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
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Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol face cream, for mature skin with deep wrinkles and/or uneven skin surface.
Source: Feelunique
This product contains carnosine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Intensive Retinol Face Cream
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
carnosine, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A silicone that mixes with water creating nice light-weight product texture
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol face cream, for mature skin with deep wrinkles and/or uneven skin surface.
Source: Feelunique
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 50/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol Face Cream | Current | $54.00 | |
Elizavecca Milky Piggy Aqua Rising Steam Filler Moisture Cream | 42% | $15.80 | |
HydroPeptide Travel-Size Nimni Cream | 40% | $112.00 | |
 Mesoestetic Age Element Firming Cream | 40% | $88.00 | |
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 Thalgo NutriSoothing Cream | 40% | $26.40 |
Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl isononanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dipropylene glycol caprylate, Unknown, Alcohol denat., Dipropylene glycol, Glycol palmitate, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Cetyl palmitate, Ptfe, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Cetearyl glucoside, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Disodium edta, C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Retinyl palmitate, Polysorbate 60, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Propylene glycol, Parfum, Peg/ppg-18/18 dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sorbitan isostearate, Carnosine, Sodium hydroxide, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Tocopherol, Laminaria digitata extract, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts
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- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health