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Dr. Soie Amaranth Premium Cream
Dr. Soie

Dr. Soie Amaranth Premium Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
10 ingredients credited for this claim
Good evidence
What the product description says
“To moisturize and moisturize the skin.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, cera alba.

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.4–2.1%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~5.2–7.8%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.1–1.7%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.15–0.55%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~2.3–3.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.4–5.2%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.2–3.3%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.5–1.1%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, thioctic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.15–0.55%
Thioctic acidKey activeEffect: High~0.1–0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.1–1.7%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate evidence

This product contains carnosine, retinyl palmitate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.15–0.55%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.7%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.1–1.7%
Thioctic acidEffect: Low~0.1–0.3%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate evidence

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.7%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.1–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Retinyl palmitate
Medium risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.7%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~5.2–7.8%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~2.3–3.5%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.55–1.35%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.85–1.3%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.5–1.1%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–1%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.1–1.7%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.2–3.3%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~5.2–7.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Glycerin~3.4–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl alcohol~2.2–3.3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Cera alba~2.3–3.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Raffinose~1.7–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Raffinose
1,2-hexanediol~0.55–1.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Squalane~1.4–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.1–1.7%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Cetearyl glucoside~0.85–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Caprylyl glycol~0.5–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Polysorbate 60~0.4–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Allyl alcohol
Not recognized
Sorbitan isostearate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopherol~0.15–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Carnosine~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Dimethyl mea~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dimethyl mea
Niacinamide~0.1–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-agingReduces irritationReduces rednessAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Thioctic acid~0.1–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging
More about Thioctic acid
Succinoyl atelocollagen~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Succinoyl atelocollagen
Citric acid~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium citrate~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Ingredient list view

Water, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Cera alba, Raffinose, 1,2-hexanediol, Squalane, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cetearyl glucoside, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Caprylyl glycol, Polysorbate 60, Unknown, Sorbitan isostearate, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Carnosine, Dimethyl mea, Niacinamide, Thioctic acid, Succinoyl atelocollagen, Citric acid, Sodium citrate

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 8 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Efficacy of barrier creams in comparison to skin care products in dental laboratory technicians--a controlled trialncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  6. 6
    Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care productssciencedirect.com
Dr. Soie Amaranth Premium Cream
Dr. SoieAmaranth Premium Cream
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